Adventures for Anyone: April 2023

As I've said, most people who visit St. Lucia speed by a lot of the culture and history to visit the high points and then beat feet back to their cruise or resort. One of these cities that is sped through is Soufriere.

Soufriere is an iconic city. It was for a long time the capital of St. Lucia, losing it's title somewhere between 1967 and the date of independence, 1979. The word Soufriere is French for Sulfur Mine or place of sulfur, and it is aptly named.

Soufriere has a volcano. Hence, the reference to sulfur. We visited the drive in caldera, took the tour, and learned its history. I highly recommend this activity. If you like, you can do it on a day tour from your cruise ship or resort. The drive in caldera is rare and the only one in the Caribbean; maybe the world. For anyone visiting, it does smell like sulfur. I saw some people struggling with it and wondered what they came there for, but that's just me.

The guided tour of the volcano itself takes less than half an hour. They tell you all about the history, activity and explain how they monitor it today. They point out the one thing that you don't notice on your own; the size. It's huge! It's interesting stuff, especially if you've never visited a dormant, yet very much alive volcano.

Before you arrive at the tour of the caldera, there's baths. They are sulfury. They are mud baths with volcanic mud. They are thermal. They are fantastic. Especially if you have any aches and pains. Won't lie; didn't want to leave. There are also changing rooms, concessions if you like, and above the baths are a bunch of souvenir stands. The people are wonderful, and I recommend stopping to chat almost everywhere you go in St. Lucia, but particularly around Soufriere. They have all kinds of history to tell.

A couple of practical facts. Make sure you aren't too attached to the swimsuit you wear to these baths. They do leave grey or black coloring from the volcanic mud, and you may have to throw out your suits. Just a fact. I didn't have to, but my husband did. Big advice. Wear something black.. Also, this is another spot where I ran into people on the guided tour and saw what it was like for them. They barely had 15 minutes in the baths before the guides were herding them out so they could make it to their next destination. We, on the other hand, had no such constraints. We lounged in those baths for a while. We visited with a local chef and got some great ideas of where to eat. We didn't make it to our other destinations that day and came back another day to do those. We had the freedom to take our time and enjoy the activities.

There are a lot of tourist activities around Soufriere. There are some resorts there as well. Some of the first resorts in the country were opened in Soufriere. It did used to be the country's capital. But, one of the most overlooked things about Soufriere is the city itself. It's a beautiful old world somewhat colonial looking town with a great waterfront, authentic local restaurants and historic places to see.

We stopped at Petit Peak Restaurant twice on our trip. The food was local, wonderful, and we had an amazing view of the harbor and the Piton Peaks. After we ate, we went to see the main town square, walked along the city pier and the waterfront and stopped at the small town beach. The views were amazing. The people were so friendly. I learned a lot about Soufriere while in the city. We visited a pharmacy, because I needed some band aids. We did some shopping. We went to the grocery store. It's a great place; relaxing and bright and beautiful. If you like, there are apartment rentals as well. It's a great place to stay. Just know that it is a stop on a lot of boat and minivan tours. It's also a water taxi stop. There are many ways to get around and to and from Soufriere. This is a place that should be savored, not run through at top speed.

That being said, there are some extraordinarily famous peaks in Soufriere. The Pitons are known around the world. They are some of the highest peaks in the Caribbean and one of the best known landmarks in St. Lucia. You see them when you fly in. You can't miss them if you're anywhere near them. They are majestic and beautiful.

Hiking the Pitons is something that is part of the allure of the island. There are hikes up Gros Piton and Petit Piton. They are fairly difficult and not for the faint of heart. The hikes take a few hours, but the views from the top are so worth it. If the difficult hikes aren't for you, take the Tet Paul Nature Trail. Only about a half hour, with a bunch of steps; it also comes out to some amazing scenery.

Here's a tip. If you have the adventure of driving to Soufriere via Marigot Bay and Anse la Ray, you will find three things worth stopping for. In the middle of nowhere along the road, there's a chocolate factory, store and restaurant; "Cacoa St. Lucie." You can tour the factory, eat at the restaurant and buy amazing chocolates at the store. There's a restaurant called "The Beacon" which hangs off a cliff with an outstanding view of Soufriere. Great place to get a view of those Pitons. Not far from there is a stop at a viewpoint that also has an amazing view. The vendors at the viewpoint will not only sell you some great spicy banana ketchup, but they will help you pose for a great picture that makes it look as though you're touching the tops of the Pitons. It's a fun little stop along the way. An unfortunate fact is that "The Beacon Restaurant" runs on the cruise schedule and closes after lunch.

Soufriere is also known for some waterfalls. The Diamond Falls and Botanic Garden with Mineral Baths is one such spot. I learned a lot about the local flora and fauna. You can hire a guide at the entrance if you like, but we learned a lot on our own from the material around the garden. The flowers and plants were beautiful. Diamond Falls is beautiful, and unique in the coloring that it gets from the volcanic minerals in the water. It is a must see. You can see it on the guided tours, but once again, you may not have a lot of time there.

Another part of the Botanic Gardens is the mineral baths. They were built in the 1800's for French military people, and today are a part of the island's rich history. They are not thermal baths, but are reported to be good for what ails you. You can enter the baths via the gift shop by the waterfall.

Touraille Waterfall is just up the road from Diamond Falls and the Botanic Gardens, so I recommend doing both. Touraille is the falls you can jump into and enjoy the water in the heat of the day. They have changing rooms, concessions and souvenirs. It's a great stop, but I wouldn't drive all the way out to Soufriere just to go there. Combine it with other waterfalls or the botanic gardens. It's not an all day place. Also know that there are other waterfalls in the area. You can purchase a map of the area that has other waterfalls on it. You can also look online. Most of the others are at least a small hike and not roadside or in a public gardens.

Be aware that the activities around Soufriere aren't free. There are small fees to walk a trail, see a botanical garden, go to a bath, or see a waterfall. All in all, you will spend roughly half of what a day tour costs for activities and food. However, you make your schedule. I thought that was well worth it.

There are other things to do in the area of Soufriere that I didn't get to. They have several beautiful beaches. All beaches in St. Lucia are public, so you don't have to worry about access. There are several boat tours you can take from Soufriere, whether it's to sail, fish, or watch a sunset.

One of the premier experiences in the area is The Rabot Hotel, or Hotel Chocolat. Here you not only get to stay in a luxury resort, but you get to learn about plantation life and history in St. Lucia. They have chocolate and rum tastings, a program where you learn all about chocolate growing and even make your own chocolate bar. They will take you on tours in the area and to the city market to learn about farm products in the country. They have access to the Piton Hiking Trails as well. If you want to stay at a resort; there you go.

Soufriere is a place that will capture your heart. It has a feel of days gone by, but feels a bit modern too. It's the kind of place where you can go and relax, take your time and see all the wonderful things it has to offer. The sights are unforgettable. The sunsets are magical. The people are what make you want to be there the most, but the chocolate is good. I've never been anyplace like it, and if I get to go back to the magical island, I intend to spend some more time there. I didn't get to see everything I wanted to. Do I recommend that folks visit Soufriere? Undoubtedly. It's another important place to get off the timed tour and kick back and get to know it a little. You won't regret it. So, slow down. Take your time. Visit Soufriere and all of her amazing places and enjoy!

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