Still Following Napoleon Around the Mediterranean

My fascination with Napoleon has taken me to a lot of places, and most recently has landed me in the Mediterranean Sea.  I've talked about his birthplace, Corsica.  Now, I feel the need to discuss his place of exile for 10 months or 300 days back in 1814...Elba, Italy.  Portoferraio to be exact.  As with every other section of Napoleon's life, I find this one fascinating.  Just when I thought I knew all there was to know about the Emperor of all Europe, I find out a little more.  It's not that I didn't know that he was exiled to Elba.  It's just that I'd never learned about his life while he was there.

When Napoleon arrived in Portoferraio, Elba on May 3rd, 1814, he had done so by choice.  He'd been given the choice of being exiled to Corfu or Elba and chose the latter.  He liked the mild climate, and he preferred the idea of being around the locals there.  Reportedly, while he was there, he united several groups into a united island group.  I had no idea that he'd more or less put himself in charge and helped to make the place more balanced and peaceful.  There are stories of how wonderfully he treated many of the people on the island during his stay.  He supposedly paid a dowry so that a young girl could marry the man that she loved.  It is said that the people of Portoferraio helped him ready his ships so that he could head out to conquer France again.

Elba is one of seven islands off the coast of Italy.  They are part of the Tuscany Province, which I find interesting because you don't normally think of islands when you think of Tuscany.  Tuscany is that province of rolling fields and vineyards on the mainland with medieval villages and winding roads.  Elba, on the other hand is rocky and mountainous and known for its mines.  The island's value for centuries was largely due to minerals that were mined on the island and sold abroad.  There are mines on Elba that have now been turned into tourist attractions.  Elba is the third largest island belonging to Italy and the largest in it's archipelago.  It's known for it's beaches, it's old world villages, and the archipelago is largely national park area.  The main activity in most of the island areas is hiking and rock climbing.  Off the coast they mostly hang out on the beautiful beaches, sail, and snorkel.  The beaches are gravel in most areas, so the water is crystal clear.  In the summer time the beaches are busy.

Both of Napoleon's homes, Villa dei Mulini and the Villa in San Martino are now museums where you can see what his living situation was like when he was on Elba.  His sister and mother joined him on the island, and they maintained a very close family life.  The Villa in San Martino was chosen by Napoleon for his love, Maria Luisa; but she never came to be with him.  He did, however, have one visit with his other liaison, Maria Walewska of Poland.  She came to visit him and brought their son once while he was there.  At the Villa dei Mulini you can see Napoleon's death mask as well.

Napoleon's influence is seen all over Portoferraio.  It's strange that the man that we were taught was such a monster, was revered by the people of this town on this island.  It's hard to remember that he also did good for the French at one point too.  He brought a unity and brought law and education to the masses.  That was before he went mad with power, but even Hitler did good in the beginning.  The strange thing with Napoleon was that he did good things for the people of Elba after he went mad with power and before he went back to France and took another swing at it in the 100 days war.  I guess he had more than one side.

The Misericordia Church is where Napoleon and his family went to church while they lived on Elba.  The ancient church still stands today, and is still in use.  There is a museum with it that has things from the time of Napoleon, one of their most famous visitors.  This is how they feel about the man.  He died on St. Helena on May 5th, 1821.  Every year on May 5th there is a service held in his honor in Misericordia Church.  In 2014 they had a celebration in Portoferraio for the 200th anniversary of Napoleon's exile on Elba.  Isn't it strange how one world's monster is another world's hero?

Portoferraio is more than just the location where Napoleon spent a few months in 1814.  It is an old town that was fortified by Cosimo dei Medici in the 1600's to protect the territory from pirates.  Forte Falcone and Forte Stella were built around the town to that end.  Linguella Fort and its imposing Martello Tower are also part of the local fortification.  All of these are amazing museums with fascinating histories and should not be missed.  The lighthouse at Forte Stella is one of the oldest lighthouses on the Mediterranean Sea.  Forte Falcone you can drive to, but the other two have some walking involved.  The views are well worth any trouble though.

Now, we've all heard the story about Napoleon sneaking down the steps and taking off in his ship to go back and try to retake France and all of Europe.  Not true.  There are 140 "wonky" steps that go from the Villa dei Mulini to the harbor below, but as I said; the trip was planned out.  The ships took days to ready for the voyage.  There was no secret.  The locals knew what he was up to.  But the steps are a great walk with a great view, so enjoy them.  Also, enjoy the water, the beaches, the shopping, the old town, the food, and take time to go sailing.  Portoferraio is a fabulous place to spend some time.  There are ferries from the mainland and an airport to get you there.  There are resort hotels as well.  Many cruises stop at Elba, so you can come that way as well.  The Europeans thought that it would be a safe place to exile Napoleon to in the 1800's and he took off.  It's even easier to get around now.  So, take some time to follow the path of the life of Napoleon.  Learn something about one of history's most complex dictators.  While you're at it, enjoy an incredibly beautiful Mediterranean island off the coast of Tuscany, Italy.  Come and see Portoferraio, Elba.  Enjoy!

http://www.infoelba.com/elbapedia/history-of-elba/napoleon-bonaparte/leaving-elba/
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https://www.fictionpress.com/u/530752/Nina-Kindred

My Fascination With Napoleon Continues...

Corsica is known to most as a French Island in the Mediterranean Sea, and most people have heard that Napoleon was born there.  That's absolutely true.  Did you know that Corsica was ruled by all kinds of peoples and countries before it came to rest in the hands of France?  It did.  It was once even under the rule of Barbary Pirates.  But, most recently, it was Genoese until the 1700's when it was turned over to France by treaty.   Strangely, Napoleon was nearly born Italian, which would actually make sense since the island is closer to Italy than to France, and a stone's throw from Sardinia.  Less than a year before Napoleon was born, Corsica became part of France, and his father was a die hard supporter of the Genoese.  Napoleon was actually named after his uncle that died in one of the last battles before the French took over.  Isn't life strange.

The town is Ajaccio, and it lies in the southern part of the island.  It's a beautiful old city with more of an Italian feel than French.  It's the way on the island.  Corsicans have their own way, and France can claim them all they want.  It doesn't mean that they will change.  The house where Napoleon was born is on the tour route in Ajaccio, and you can look at where he spent the first years of his life.  Interestingly enough, when it came time to exile him for war crimes Corsica was not considered, and instead Napoleon was sent to Elba for his first exile.  When that didn't take, they sent him all the way to St. Helena in the South Atlantic where he finally stayed put until his death.

There is no doubt that Napoleon was Corsica's most famous resident, but the island is a beautiful and amazing place to spend some time.  Corsicans are famous for being independent and tough.  They also enjoy a rugged landscape with cliffs and mountains, yet at the same time the island is surrounded by beautiful beaches.  The scene there is still more Italian, and they have some traditions that are famously Italian like feuds and revenge.  Apparently the idea of going after your enemy's family didn't come from Sicily.  That concept started on Corsica.

Propriano is another of the fine cities in Southern Corsica.  This town has all the old world looks, but is updated for the tourists.  The Notre Dame is the main landmark that everyone visits in this town, but they are far more well known for their beaches and their old world harbor.  This is a great place for shopping, eating, hanging out at the beach, watching sunsets, and catching the ferry to Sardinia.  The landscape is beautiful, and it's a great stop while on the trail of Napoleon.

Sartene is another amazing old town along the southern coast.  It's more of a cliff stronghold turned into a village.  The narrow streets, the walled town, the ancient buildings everywhere are a sure fire winner for anyone who enjoys taking pictures.  You never know what amazing structures will be around the next corner.  This is a somewhat smaller town than some of the others that I mention here, but that keeps it more intimate.  The less people, the better the pictures.

I think that my favorite stop in Southern Corsica would have to be Bonafacio.  This is the town that was built on the cliffs at the south tip of Corsica.  It has some of the most dramatic landscapes anywhere on the island, and the town is perched on top of some super high white cliffs.  They have a castle, amazing roads, amazing walks, and this is the place to hire a boat to go out and see the view from the sea.  It's old, it's beautiful, and it's convenient as in you can catch the ferry there as well. 

There's a national park along the shore of this area and there are rock formations off the coast that you have to see to believe.  This is the fortress type village that you would associate with the Roman's and other great warrior cultures.

The islands of the Mediterranean have been inhabited for eons.  Homer sailed around them during Greek times.  The Phoenicians were here, and so many more.  The Mediterranean is supposedly the site of the lost city of Atlantis.  The stories go on and on from Egyptians to Romans and beyond.  Not far from any of the cities in Southern Corsica are ancient sites that are now open to the public.  There are structures and caves in the area dating back to prehistoric times.  Cauria and Palaggiu are two such places that aren't far from any of the towns along the southern coast. 

So, if you like history, and European History is a thing to you, Corsica has some great things to offer.  The southern shores of Corsica are alive with many histories, and in my case, the history of Napoleon.  Corsica is too big of an area to discuss it all in one shot, so you may see it come up again.  But, if you would like to visit an ancient island in modern times, Corsica is a great spot for you.  The landscape is surreal, the history is fascinating and long, the people are independent and interesting.  It's got a little something for everyone, and then you can go to the beach.  So, is this an Adventure for Anyone?  You bet it is.  Enjoy!

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The World's Biggest Ice Festival!

China is one of those mysterious places with lots of ancient history of all kinds.  Ethnic groups are plentiful, politics is interesting and varied, religion is integral, and even region comes into play in making China one of the most diverse countries on Earth.  Most of us don't know much about China, and see things in one way--the way we eat.  Most of us eat Chinese food which is not even Chinese but Polynesian or Szechwan or something.  Basically, we don't know all that much about China.  We do know that they have a huge population, so the cities are crowded.  Harbin, China looks like the average over populated city that we see in China.  The city is home to some 10 million people, and is full of modern businesses, high rise buildings, and traffic problems.  Sounds average, right?  Well, Harbin is one of China's newer cities being just over 100 years old.  Harbin is also China's most northern city being nearly on the border with Siberian Russia, sitting at the same latitude as Montreal, Canada. Long story short, it's cold up there.  So, why visit?

For one thing, Harbin is a unique mix of cultures.  Siberia is not far away and in the early 1900's there was war afoot.  The Russians and the Japanese had a real blowout and Harbin was young and vulnerable and for a while was quite Russian.  Therefore there are little things around that are distinctly Russian, like St. Sophia Russian Orthodox Church.  Sure there are Asian style temples around, but here's a Russian church.  That's different.  It sits right in the middle of the city, so you can't miss it.

Harbin is also very artistic.  Sun Island Park, or Tai Yang Dao is the enormous park in the city.  It's filled with beautiful sculptures, interesting architecture, beautiful lakes and other water areas, and gardens.  It's a beautiful place to spend some time while in the city.  Culture is very important in Harbin, and they have their own distinct culture there with the cross between various Asian, Yakut, Inuit, and Russian cultures.  There is the Siberian Tiger Park and the aquarium.  The Siberian Tiger is on the endangered list, and the people in Harbin are dedicated to helping preserve the wonderful species.  The aquarium has local indigenous animals, mostly arctic, to learn about.   But, Harbin is home to artists and lots of art culture.  You never know what kind of art exhibits you might see along the way.

 Harbin is home to one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in the country, Zhongyang.  You can find pretty much anything you need there, plus great food and drink.  The architecture is some of the oldest in the area and is more colonial than most areas of China.  It's a really interesting place to take a walk.

But, why mention Harbin in the middle of winter?  Seems like a great place to spend the summer, when a train ride up that way would be nice, the weather would be great, the days would be long, and the topiaries would be blooming.  You see, winter is kind of Harbin's thing.  They have a huge ski resort, that draws skiers from all over the world.  Even Anthony Bourdain has skied there.  Oh yeah, they also have the biggest ice festival in the world.  The Harbin Snow and Ice Festival takes over the entire city during January and February each year.

The parks, Sun Island and other various venues around the city are completely taken over by magnificent ice sculptures created by some of the best sculptors in the world.  You never know what they're going to  make, but rest assured they will be outstanding.  They light them up, which started when they used to call it the Ice Lantern Garden Party.  They make everything.  They carve buildings, animals, scenes of all kinds, temples, slides and so much more.  They hold mass weddings in the castles, and the kids play on the playground sculptures.

In addition to some of the best ice sculptures you'll ever see or play on, there are activities and entertainment to go along.  The festival last for weeks, and the participants have a great time, even though it's not unusual for the temperature to remain below zero the entire time.  No one seems to mind and it's one of the most beautiful and colorful festivals in the world.

Lots of cities around the globe glow at night, but few of them glow because the ice is illuminated.  Proud to be China's northernmost city, proud to be somewhat Russian, and proud of the beautiful art that makes up their city; Harbin really knows how to enjoy winter.  So, for that season that most of us tend to avoid, waiting for spring to come and rescue us; spend it in Harbin.  You'll get a whole other view of winter and what it's really all about.  Enjoy!

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It's the Time to go to Antarctica!

Few things provoke the imagination like the idea of going to the South Pole.  The worlds of forbidden travels, the walls and mountains of ice, the stories of Shackleton.  It's been the subject of movies, and the seed that really started the worries about global warming.  Even for those that don't like the cold, there's a mystique that makes us all consider making that trip someday.  Well, I think it's time that we worked it in.

Back in the 1980's and early 1990's it would cost you around $20,000 to climb onto a redesigned Russian icebreaking ship and take a cruise to the land of the unknown in Antarctica.  You might get to stop at McMurdo Station if the weather was promising.  Only around 1,000 people went until sometime in the 1990's.  But, tourism has been on a steady climb since that time.  Now, nearly 40,000 people go down there each year.  Think about that.  There's only a couple of months a year that we can even go.  That's a lot of traffic.

That's not all.  It seems that everyone has some kind of a science station in Antarctica these days.  They come in all shapes and designs, and one of the British collection can walk.  That's amazing.  They build them in all kinds of designs for weather, budget, light reflection and whatever.  My point is that it's getting crowded down there.  Who wants to go to the world's most amazing frontier and find thousands of people milling about?  That's why I say go now before it gets even more out of control.  People worry about global warming, it's effects on Antarctica and the hole in the Ozone layer down there, but let's pump it full of people.  That  will help.  Sure.

These days there are a ton cruises that go to Antarctica.  I don't know of any way to fly to Antarctica unless you are a visiting scientist.  They used to take some tourist flights from New Zealand to Antarctica, but one of them crashed and everyone was killed.  This lead to them being deemed to dangerous and discontinued to this day.  Some of the cruises leave from other places, but most of them run out of Ushauaia, Argentina.  There are a lot of places that you can visit along the way.  I've talked about these trips before, so you can look at previous posts and find out some about them.  Ushauaia is a fascinating spot in and of itself.  This is a huge jumping off point for cruises around Antarctica and the Scotia Sea, but they also have trips specifically to Cape Horn.  Ushauaia is the southernmost city in the world, and it has a flavor all it's own sitting amongst the glaciers of the southern Andes of Patagonia in one of the world's most interesting climates.

The cruises of today go to many locales along the Antarctic Circle.  The Falklands are a regular stop for cruises these days.  These remote islands have been the subject of some of the strangest conflicts I've ever heard of.  The British are the proud owners of these remote islands with harsh weather and virtually no resources.  In the 1980's they actually went to war with Argentina over the islands.  Today they remain British and the Argentinians remain angry about it.  They are a pretty set of islands and Port Stanley is the capital and virtually only city.  There are things to do in the Falklands.  You can see a lot of historic sites, learn all about the war and the conflict between England and Argentina over them.  There are also some great nature spots to go and see.

There's not much on the South Georgia Islands, but there are people there.  This will be your first big penguin stop on your way to Antarctica, so that's cool.  Remember that there are several different kinds of the bird to see along the way, and they each have their own separate area to live in.  There are signs of the Shackleton Expedition all along the way, so enjoy the history.

Most likely, you'll visit the South Sandwich Islands.  These islands are highly volcanic and they are full of wildlife.  You will be taken to see a colony of penguins while in the Sandwich Islands on most tours.  It is an incredible experience to see penguins up close.  They are a curious bird and want to know about us almost as much as we want to know about them.  Just remember, they are wild animals and treat them with respect.  If they don't want to come to you, don't force it.

There is no way to cruise to Antarctica from Argentina without crossing the Drake Passage.  Bring your Dramamine.  This is some of the roughest waters in the world.  There are myths and stories from many generations about this body of water.  It's fascinating and beautiful, but it will kill you.  The waves will come and the seas will be unpredictable.  Tourists who take the cruise out to Cape Horn only run about a %50 chance of getting to step on land there, because the waters are so unpredictable.

But the passage is worth it, because oh what an amazing world lies on the other side.  Paradise Bay is one of the more well noted spots along the way, but the icebergs are amazing, the water is clear, the whales are there in the winter months and the wildlife is diverse.  There are all kinds of penguins as I mentioned, whales, seals, and the monstrous Leopard Seal.  This predator was made famous in "March of the Penguins" and is one of the more dangerous animals on that continent.  At any rate, there is a lot of wildlife to enjoy.  There are the stations to visit too.  Different cruises visit different stations, but you most likely will get to set foot on the continent and see some of what goes on there.  There are no permanent settlements on Antarctica, but the science stations are mostly staffed year round.

Here's the one that blew me away.  Not only are some of the tour companies including chances to take excursions out into the land of Antarctica, but Victory Cruises are offering a side cruise to sail along the coast of the continent.  You visit several stops along the way, see the wildlife up close and personal, get to sail a boat and they will take you for a sauna and a swim.  I'm not joking.  You go with Victory, and you will have a chance to swim in the Antarctic.  Beat that.

So, Ushauaia is the spot and there are many tours that you can take these days.  Most of them run around 14 days, but the cost has come down and one person can go for under $5,000.  I don't normally talk about a subject twice, but I just see it becoming so common that I really think that it should happen before the place looks like Vegas.  It's a really good time, because it's still rugged and the animals are still in force and amazing.  It's also a good time to go, because the trips have been expanded to see even more amazing places, peoples, animals and natural phenomena.  Taking a swim in Antarctica is certainly a once in a lifetime experience as is a cruise to Antarctica.  It's that once in a lifetime thing that you will never forget and it is truly an Adventure for Anyone.  Enjoy!

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