As usual, my friend Jenn has an amazing bucket list and picks spots that I rarely think about. My friend Billy travels all over northern Africa and spends an inordinate amount of time in Morocco, but Jenn mentioned Fez, a place that Billy apparently never travels to.
When I think of Morocco, I always think of Tangier, Marrakesh, and Casablanca. For whatever reason, Fez never came to mind. Thank you Jenn, because wow was I missing some things.
Fez is unique, and that's the most succinct way I can put it. It's been there for over 1,000 years. It sits in the Sahara Desert, and it used to be the capital of the area. It has been ruled by sultans, kings, religious leaders, and even the French.
The walled sections of the city are on either side of the river; a necessary item to have in order to have a city of millions. Fez is the third largest city in the country and it has the most history. Fes al Bali is the oldest part of the city. It is medieval and a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. Morocco became an independent nation in 1956 and by the 1980's, the Medina area was in danger of total destruction in the name of progress, but it was saved and is currently the largest pedestrian area in the world.
The oldest parts of the city are still walled and are entered through gates. There are no vehicles in these areas. You will still see donkeys and carts however. These are the main shopping areas for the world famous Moroccan staple items. You can find all of the exotic tiles and leather goods, rugs and metal works in the souks in the Medina.
Fez and Morocco are famous for their tanneries. There are a few in Fez, the most famous by far is the Chouara Tannery, located in the Medina. The process is laborious and has remained the same for centuries. They produce some of the finest leather in the world, and you can buy everything from shoes and belts to saddles in the souks made from this finely worked leather. If you like, you can arrange for a tour of the tannery through a local travel guide.
Fez is a sprawling city that has been through many phases. It was even called the Baghdad of the East at one time and is famous for its gardens. There are several gardens throughout the city both in the old neighborhoods and in Nouvelle Ville outside the walls in the newer part of the city.
The University of al-Qarawiyyin can be found in the old town, and it is highly regarded as a place of higher education worldwide. Here's a fun fact; it is the oldest university in the world. That's right; the world. It is still in operation. It is still a renowned institution for learning. It is multicultural and fabulous.
Is there a palace in Fez? Why yes, there is. The Palais Royal began construction in 1864 and is still gorgeous today. It has long since been the home of the royal family of Morocco, which you would think had gone by the wayside as the seat of government has moved to Marrakesh and all, but the current King, King Mohammed VI still lives in the palace with his family today. You can arrange a tour of the more public areas of the palace and grounds with a local tour guide.
Religion is always a big topic in Saharan countries, but Morocco is a bit different. While the country's official religion is Islam, patrons are allowed to practice their choice of religion. In the early days of Fez's prominence, the Hajj, the annual Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca was suspended for military and safety reasons. Fez became the location for pilgrims to make their way to east of the Nile River for years. During this time, there was a progression in the pilgrimage process.
The men of Fez wanted to designate a head dressing for men making their pilgrimage during the Hajj. The design that was settled on for this honor is what we today know as the Fez. It is a fact, the Fez hat came from Fez, Morocco.
From early times, there were many mosques in Fez and there are both old and new ones today. There are some in the walled areas, and some in the newer parts of the city. The bulk of the population is in fact Muslim.
There are some religious places that you might not expect to see in Fez. They do have a Catholic Church and it's still in use.
The amazing find, however, is the Jewish Quarter. From ancient times, there have been Jewish folks in Fez, and a few remain still today. There are synagogues, businesses, and even the cemetery. It is said that only 100 or so Jewish people still live in Fez, but the quarter remains in the old city.
Fez is famous for being an ancient city. However, all around the walled ancient neighborhoods is a bustling city. There are luxury hotels, busy streets, supermarkets, and everything you would expect to see in the city. The draw for the tourist here is the ancient world, but don't forget to check out what modern life is like.
You can travel to Fez by train or by plane as they have modern train stations and airports in the connectors of Casablanca and Marrakesh. There is a bus system to get you around all of the city save for the Medina areas. Taxis are available in most areas.
Also, don't forget that Fez is one of the largest cities in Morocco. If you take a taxi, make sure you settle your fare up front, so you don't find yourself paying a ridiculous amount when you arrive at your destination. Especially in the souks watch your wallet and purse. Pickpockets are a real problem in crowded shopping and tourist areas. Always check the State Department website before travel to Morocco to make sure you are aware of any problems. I had to cancel a trip several years ago, because there were riots and uprisings there. As always, check for Covid-19 updates before you travel anywhere, and be aware that the latest concerning variant came out of South Africa. Always make plans that you can change without losing your money. Just a practical factor in today's travel.
As long as you aren't concerned about the pandemic, there are some ancient rituals just waiting for you to try out. Public baths were a way of life for centuries in this part of the world. Today, baths and spas are abundant in Fez. They treat you the way that the ancients did, and it's something that should not be missed while visiting the area. Most hotels can make arrangements for a spa day at a bath through their concierge.
Now, what else can you do while on a trip to Fez? Northern Africa is a home to a wealth of ruins, not only of ancient North African peoples, but also Romans and Egyptians. Outside of Fez are several areas of ruins and they provide guides to explain the history to you. It's a great way to spend the day.
You can also take a camel safari into the desert, or go hiking in either the river areas or the desert. There are many kinds of active excursions into the desert by four wheel drive, wind surfing or whatever. There are many adventures to be had.
I wanted to make a note that one of the most dangerous races in history used to run right through Morocco. The Dakar Rally for years ran from France to Dakar, Senegal; right through Morocco and Western Sahara. So, be cautious with your activities. Don't go into the desert without a proper guide. The Sahara is dangerous.
Shopping, eating and lodging can be a lot of fun in Fez. You can buy just about anything in the old city. Don't rely on your credit card, or you might be disappointed. Cash is still king in the souks, and they take local, US, and Euro currencies in most stalls and shops. Also, if you like, most hotels will make arrangements to ship your items home if you don't wish to take an extra bag or 12 on the plane. Haggle all you want, for it is customary in Fez.
Food is a must try. If you look hard, there are a couple of western franchises knocking around, but don't do that. Moroccan cuisine is a thing of beauty and flavor, so try it out. Stop at a local stall or shop or restaurant and taste the amazing flavors of the desert. If you aren't adventurous and worry about what you should eat, ask the staff at your hotel. They will be happy to advise you.
One thing that should be said is that you should try to learn a little bit of the language, which can be a bit tricky. Being a large city, you will find English speaking people in Fez. You should try to learn at least a few phrases in the local languages of French and Egyptian Arabic. Tricky, but a few phrases should be doable.
The other topic in visiting any Muslim country is alcohol. Can you get an alcoholic beverage in Morocco? Yes. They even have vineyards and make wine in Morocco. However, I wouldn't recommend drinking while in the country. Morocco is primarily Muslim and they see drinking alcohol as a sin. When in Rome, folks. Alcohol can wait til you get home.
So, Morocco has always been one of my dream spots, but I'd never honestly considered Fez. Thanks Jenn! I'm waiting with baited breath now for my chance to go. Morocco sits along the coast of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a desert country despite all of the surrounding water. Fez sits out in that desert and was once a huge trading station. Given its location, you wouldn't expect to find the education of the oldest world class university in the world. You wouldn't expect the cultural diversity, especially within the realm of religion. And, I would never have imagined a royal family still living in a palace in a city that has long since not been the seat of government. Fez is a fascinating place with a history of world famous leather, the largest pedestrian area in the world and one of the most complete, still operating ancient walled cities anywhere. And remember, there are two walled cities there.
So, take the time to investigate Fez, Morocco as a destination. You can visit on a Morocco tour or as an individual trip. As always I recommend taking a trip directly to the Fez area. I always believe that taking your time gives you a better experience with an area. All of Morocco does sound fascinating, but take you time with it and enjoy!
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