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Friday, October 18, 2024
Let's Get Outside for This Week's Fast Five!
Thursday, October 17, 2024
More on Porto! How to be a Traveler and See Some Touristy Stuff Too!
More and more as I travel, it becomes clear that there's more than one way to enjoy a place. We've all been to Disney and we've seen what's designed for tourists. One of the best ways to enjoy a place is to enjoy the simple things and appreciate what the locals appreciate.
In Porto, we stayed in a moderately touristy neighborhood. We were right across the street from one of the city markets. It was the most touristy one and you could even buy a glass of Port and drink it while you shopped. They had a second level with high priced restaurants for the tourists. It had its pros and cons as a place for us, but we did visit that market. We didn't go to the restaurants, but we did get some take away food and had a couple of afternoon noshes there. Of course, we got a glass of Port. It was too kitschy not to participate.
But one of the things that we found annoying was that most of the businesses in our little neighborhood were designed for the tourists. There were nonstop bakeries selling Pasteis De Nata or Nata as the locals called them. They are a lovely egg tart and if you go to the right place, which is not in the touristy areas, you can try different flavors as well. There's also a dozen or so places in a confined area where you can buy the Porto specialty sandwich, the Francesinha. This is a heart attack on a plate, but is delicious and everyone should try it once while in Porto.
Our question became where do we find what the locals are eating? The only place near us that sold normal food or drink was the coffee shop, My Coffee Porto, where we went for our morning coffee. They had the Natas, but they also had all the normal things you'd expect at a coffee shop. My favorite part was that they had an iced latte. Not something that we found in most places in Porto and it was really nice as was the atmosphere and the staff. They were wonderful gentlemen and I can't recommend this place enough. We made a point to go there every day, even though we could have made coffee in our apartment. It's wonderful. Yes, there was a Starbucks around the corner but I was enjoying Portugal, not Seattle.
To be honest, if you're in old town, as we were, you'll be working hard to find a restaurant that isn't meant for tourists. Even the Korean, cook it on a bbq at your table restaurant that we went to was in a very touristy spot and only took Portuguese credit cards and cash. However, in the middle of a club neighborhood that was full of Francesinha restaurants, we found an authentic Portuguese Restaurant. We had to look for it online and find it on a side street, but it was there. It was a regular restaurant, as opposed to the famous Majestic Cafe and all their J.K. Rowling stories, but the food was local and so were the customers. The prices were realistic, which didn't always happen in the area, because it's full of tourists, and the people who operated that place were fantastic. Murca No Porto was the name and it's on Rua Da Alegria. We went there twice. Great food for a good price and great atmosphere.
One of the big things we learned was to stop at a small restaurants instead of an actual bar to have a drink. We found that being in a tourist neighborhood, the bars were meant for tourists once again. We even had a couple of bars around us that were what we would call in the United States; dive bars.
We learned what kind of Port we liked. Yes, there are several. We learned about the local beer, which was overwhelmingly Super Bock and came in many different brews. We went to a wine tasting and tour in Villa Nova de Gaia which is a standard tourist thing to do. But we did take our walking tour guide's recommendation on what wasn't a tourist trap rip off. Always take the advice. We were very happy we did.
Simply remember to include some more touristy stuff with your local experiences. Just like in the markets. You can buy fish and veggies and some fabulous cheeses, but you can also buy chocolate sardines, Nata, and drink a glass of Port while you shop. Always have a mix of the two.
We visited a local church, just around the corner from our apartment. It was free to go inside, because it wasn't on the tourist list. It was covered in the iconic tiles and was gilded inside and was stunning. But, it was not the tourist trap that the Igreja de Sao Francisco Cathedral in Ribeira was. Because it was in the most touristy part of the city, they charged 10 Euros per person for entry. Ribeira is where the tours go, and where the tourists congregate. They have a busy McDonald's down there. Just saying. One of the main things I always do, and in Porto it was no different, is I spend very little time in the most touristy parts of the city.
We went to a Fado Performance at the Sao Bento Train Station. It was touristy, but it was just a taste of the national music, and it was worth every penny. I stand by that one. Some things touristy are worth it. We took a walking tour to get an idea of how things worked in the city, and I stand by that. I learned a lot, and I'm glad I went. The train station itself is ground zero in the city. It's where you can take a train anywhere you want. It's a museum with the beautiful tiles in the entry area, which tell some historic stories of Portugal. This is also where you can go to a Fado performance. You also get your tourist passes for the metro and bus there. The train station is a one stop shop if Porto's old town has one. We went there a lot for many reasons.
Don't be a tourist when it comes to transportation. There's a hop on hop off bus that goes around Porto. There are also guided bus tours, tuk tuk tours, and a magic train that I don't truly understand. That's more of a carnival ride. Putting all that aside, you have to get around and the hills are steep. I was advised, and after seeing Porto I understood not to rent a car and try to drive. You'll get killed or at the very least wreck the car or get lost.
I've rarely been to a place that had more public transport options than Porto. I've said it before, you can get a three day pass for all the buses and metros. It's a great way to get around. The 500 bus goes along the shore just like the tram and further out along the coast. The 200 bus goes to the Jardins do Palacio de Cristal, which is a great park and that route ends at the Castelo do Queijo; a fabulous old fort along the shore. The park is free, because it's a city park. The fort cost us .50 Euro to go inside. The beach and the shore are right there and free. They are areas where the locals go. Along the 500 bus route is the river with a lot of parks, beaches along the shore, and a lighthouse. All free places to visit. Save your money some days. Go local.
Transportation can be part of the fun. Porto has a Funicular next to the Luis I Bridge, and if you need to get up the hill, you can ride it to the top for 4 euros. Great tourist attraction and public transit. You can ride the old trams for 6 Euros and get a nostalgic trip. There's an elevator that takes you up the cliff from Ribeira to the Porto Cathedral neighborhood which is free. You just have to find it and figure it all out. Great views of the river though. The metro goes across the Luis I Bridge with amazing views of the river and inches away from the pedestrians. Quite a trip. We walked across to Gaia and took the Metro back to get a mix of experiences. The cable car that takes you down to the wine tasting district will cost 7 Euros one way or 10 Euros round trip, but what a view. I love cable cars and didn't want to miss that. If you wish to have a great view from below; and it is great; take a water taxi. They run back and forth most of the day and cost 3 Euros.
Once again, there are many ways to enjoy a location. You don't have to spend a fortune every day to enjoy a place like Porto. There are so many things to do and see that don't cost an arm and a leg that you'll never be bored. So, get away from the obvious tourist traps and do a little local living in a place like Port, Portugal. You won't regret it!
So, get a pass, take a walk, go to a park or a beach and enjoy!
Tuesday, October 8, 2024
How to Get Around Porto, Portugal! Porto Guide Part 2!
One of the interesting things about the Porto area was getting around. I don't mean that it was hard to do, which it wasn't. I also am not saying that it was expensive, because it wasn't. It was simply the variety of ways to get around that amazed me and how they all work together to make an incredible system for the residents and the visitors if the visitors give it a try. It's all about the know, and this know is for anyone who wants to visit this incredible area.
Let's start with the Metro. Not only does the metro get you around town pretty well to a lot of areas, but you can take it to and from the airport. A lot of places and companies offer airport transfers, but they tend to be for a fee and if your budget is tight, you can just take the metro.
https://en.metrodoporto.pt/pages/378
The Metro will cost you anywhere from 1,40 to 3,20 Euros for a single ticket. That being said, they are normally sold at the machine in two rides purchases. Unlike American metro systems, you must tap your card each time, including transfers. There are also several different ways to buy tickets. There are several different multi passes to buy. Some involve different zones, some involve multiple zones. There are different passes for daily up to monthly. Some of them are a very good deal. The monthly 40 Euro pass covers buses, trams and metro. That's a good deal and it gets you all around the city. You can check the website for the stations where you can purchase various passes.
Then, there's being a traveler. That opens up some other doors. We decided to get a three day travel pass for all the buses and metro. There's a single day pass for 8 Euros per person. The three day pass is 16 Euros per person. There is a catch though. We found it hard to find. The website said you can get it at any official tourist office. So we went to the tourist office at the Porto Cathedral, because we were visiting the cathedral at the time.
When we stopped in, they told us that they don't sell the passes. We found out through that exchange that the only place you can get them is at Sao Bento Train Station at a special ticket window. It was Tuesday, and we walked right down the hill to the train station and got our passes. We used them and they were terrific. We went anywhere we wanted to and didn't have to worry about having a ticket.
We discovered that while buses had drivers to make sure you were tapping your card or pass, the metro seems to be the honor system. It's different from what we're used to here in America with the doors and turnstiles. In Porto you just tap the machine with your card and walk away. To be honest, I saw a lot of people who just walked by and onto the metro without paying. At any rate, the cards are great to have and only available for tourists. All others must buy the regular pass cards.
Three days later, it was Saturday, and we wanted another three day pass. When we got to the train station, the window was closed. It wasn't open on the weekends. So, we went on our way to suffer with the regular prices. As we were waiting for the bus across the street, it occurred to me how welcomed we'd been by everyone in town. I couldn't help but think there had to be a weekend solution. We went back to the train station where the line for train tickets was out the door into the street. I thought that we might be able to get the tickets at a regular ticket window, but I wasn't sure.
We stopped into the customer relations office and asked the gentleman there if we could get the passes at a regular ticket window. He told us that we could. We stood in line and got our three day passes renewed. So, that's the tourist trick. Go to the train station and on the weekends go to a regular ticket window. You'll have a pass that gets you unlimited rides on all buses and metro for 72 hours from the first time you tap that card. Easy.
Another way to get around is by bus. If you pay when you get on the bus, you will pay cash. At various metro stations and of course, the train station, you can buy passes up to a month pass. The bus will cost you 1,40 to 4,55 for a bus ticket depending on where you go. An individual monthly pass costs 30 euros and a family monthly pass is 80 euros. Once again, you can get a 40 euro a month pass that covers all buses, trams and metro. This allows you the most mobility. And the tourist pass covers all metro and buses. Also a good deal.
https://www.stcp.pt/en/travel/tariffs/prices/
The good news is that the metro runs seven days a week from 6 am to 1 am. That will get you around pretty well. The buses in Porto run from 6 am to 9 pm every day. Just know that the buses will run a different schedule for holidays and weekends. Simply check the schedules at the bus stop and you will see what that day's schedule is. Just know that there are great buses for tourists. The 500 bus goes out along the shore. the 900's tend to go to Villa Nova de Gaia. The 200 bus goes to some amazing spots and ends at the Atlantic Shore. Good stuff and worth bussing it around.
Friday, October 4, 2024
Porto Portugal, Part One of the Practical Guide and Information!
Hallo, and greetings from Portugal! As I said in my last post, I was out gathering some great information on a new spot and that spot was Porto, Portugal. I will begin by saying that Porto was the most beautiful city I've ever been to and I've been to Moscow, Krakow, Vienna, Prague and Paris. Mull that over a bit. I also can say that it was one of the friendliest places I've ever visited. It's also affordable and easy to navigate with great public transportation. Therefore, I have a lot to say and this is just the first of a few posts that will be a comprehensive guide to Porto!
Above: Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina (Chapel of Souls).
1. Churches and Cathedrals. We took a walking tour with a wonderful local guide, which I highly recommend, because we got so much good information from him, including a list of suggestions of places to visit to eat, sightsee and so on. He actually guided us away from tourist traps! He told us that there are over 400 churches and cathedrals in the Porto vicinity. Obviously, that means you can't see them all.
Let's start by saying that not all of them are even open to the public. There are many beautiful churches and cathedrals in the city, and some of them are quite famous and public, but others are still for the parishioners and I was happy to respect that. Also, some of the locations post hours of services, so you shouldn't attempt to visit during those hours. It's best to not plan to visit most churches on a Sunday for obvious reasons as most are Catholic and Sunday is for services.
Other things to note about visiting churches and cathedrals. Read the signs and listen to the staff. Some venues allow photos in the main church; some do not. Some ask you not to speak in the main church. Some are in use most of the time, so be respectful of worshippers while you are in their church. There's a lot of different approaches to visitors in a church, so try to go with the flow.
Above: Porto Cathedral.
If you really want to make the most of your church and cathedral visiting, pick out some and go with that list. I've seen articles with up to the 50 most beautiful churches in Porto, so make sure you choose some good ones. Research is your friend. Read reviews.
That being said, I have some thoughts. We stayed in Bolhao, a neighborhood in Porto where many tourists stay. Around the corner from us was a beautiful tiled church called Capela das Almas de Santa Catarina (Chapel of Souls) or St. Catherine's Church.
This fabulous church is barely on most tourist's list. We stopped by after our morning coffee on a Tuesday and it was fabulous. Both outside and inside were stunning. It was small but not lacking in any category. Sometimes it's worth checking out a church as you're passing by. This church was free entry as well.
On the other end of the list is the most famous cathedral probably in the city; The Porto Cathedral. This is where tours meet up. This is also where tour buses stop and visit with groups. It's also the home of one of the visitor's centers. There's a lot to see at this spot, and it's one of the oldest in the city. You can visit the museum at the Bishop's Residence as well, but our guide recommended we stick to the cathedral. There is also a stained glass museum on the grounds.
The grounds are stunning. The architecture, the tiles, the office was stunning with gilding and frescoes. We saw multiple levels, and there were informational displays about many churches and cathedrals all around the country in the courtyards. We saw museum exhibits, and climbed the tower. We spent quite some time in this one cathedral and were blown away by the beauty and history.
Now comes one of the important issues. Cost. As we visited more than one cathedral and church in Porto, as well as the cathedral in Braga; we discovered that even in churches there was a wide array of prices and found out that sometimes bang for your buck should be a factor.
Above: inside of Igreja de Santa Clara Church
We visited the small church in Bolhao for free. The Porto Cathedral was 3 Euros or 6 Euros to visit the Bishops Palace as well, which we didn't do on our tour guide's recommendation. The Igreja de Santa Clara Church which was lovely and along the ancient city walls at the funicular was 4 Euros. All of these churches and cathedrals allowed you to take pictures all over the place, had beautiful things to see, and also had a historical section for viewing. All good bargains and stunning beauty.
Above: Outside and Ossuary Tombs of Igreja de Sao Francisco.
We heard about Igreja de Sao Francisco and how beautiful it was. This was a live and learn item, however. This cathedral is located along the Riverfront in Ribeira. That's code for tourist central. Ribeira is beautiful, but it's overrun with tourists and there are vendors with their stands as far as the eye can see. The restaurants are expensive, the crowds are smothering and even the McDonald's is busy, which I find disturbing anywhere.
That being said, we discovered that when the cathedral is in the over populated tourist district, it costs more. It was 10 Euros per person and a tax that made it 21 Euros for the two of us to get in. I did enjoy the ossuary, because I'd never seen one, but... It was crowded, you couldn't speak or take any pictures in the church and several other areas. There was no directory, no map, and no one to answer most questions. We also visited later in the day, and they began to close off sections of the property almost an hour before closing with no posting of any upcoming services. I was not impressed. In a city with a plethora of beautiful churches, this one seemed like a tourist trap with the souvenir shop being the main area where they were attempting to herd the tourists.
All in all, check the locations, the prices and read a little bit about a church or cathedral before you choose the ones you wish to visit. It can be very important with so many places to choose from to weigh your options and choose wisely.
My choice for bang for my buck and amazing history and beauty was the Porto Cathedral. It's the standard, and there's a reason for that. I would stay away from doing much along the river in Ribeira as it is a tourist center full of people wishing to spend a lot of money. We took our river cruise from that side of the river and it cost 3 Euros more than on the Villa Nova de Gaia side of the river. Tourist areas are almost always overpriced. The more well known a tourist area is, the more everything there costs.
There are many religious places to visit in Porto. Monastery sites, churches, cathedrals, bishop's homes, and on and on. There's no way to visit them all. As I said, plan it a bit. But not too much. We had some planned and some we stumbled upon. Each one is different, and it was a bit like visiting a citywide art museum. So, for the first of several installments about Porto, Portugal this has come to a close. Remember, I travel without a net and without a lot of tours. I do recommend free walking tours, because you get a lot of valuable information to help you plan the rest of your stay. If you book all of your activities in advance, you may find yourself too busy and not having a chance to do things you learn about along the way. I advise that you take a tour at the beginning of your visit and enjoy!
https://www.introducingporto.com/igreja-sao-francisco
https://www.gooporto.com/porto-sights/ribeira.html
https://www.gpsmycity.com/blog/7-of-the-most-notable-churches-and-cathedrals-in-porto-5437.html
https://portugaltips.com/churches-cathedrals-in-porto/
https://www.portugalexposure.com/most-beautiful-churches-in-porto/
https://wanderlog.com/list/geoCategory/120866/best-churches-in-porto
https://www.diocese-porto.pt/pt/catedral-do-porto/
https://insideporto.com/package/porto-city-guide-monuments-capela-das-almas/