Adventures for Anyone

Thursday, December 9, 2021

The Most Luxurious Part of Italy....Lake Como!

I return to discussing Italy for my friend Marissa and her bucket list today. There is much to discuss about Lake Como, and for that reason, I am not discussing the entirety of Lombardy in this post. I could barely cover the lake area.

Let's start with the basics. Lombardy, the home of Lake Como, is in the north of Italy in the foothills of the Alps. The lake itself is Y shaped and was formed by a massive glacier during the last ice age. It covers relatively 146 square miles and can be over 600 feet deep in some places. The mountains and the latitude make a unique micro climate that grows lush vegetation and produces wonderful wine in vineyards, olives and even supports certain species of palm trees. It rarely snows around the lake, leaving the locals to head into the mountains to ski.

That being said, Lake Como has long since been home to the elite, and is today still one of the most luxurious places in Italy. Over the years, it has been home to royals, Romans, rulers from around the world, artists, celebrities, and today business magnates and celebrities still make up most of the crowd that lives in the massive villas in the area.

The Lake Como area has many claims to fame. They are famous for the production of silks and furniture. They also made motorcycles and now is home to the Moto Guzzi Museum on that topic. Mussolini was killed here. Battles were fought over the area. There were once great monasteries and convents along the lake. Now, it is largely a haven for the wealthy and a playground for upscale tourists.

Bellagio is one of the most famous, and reportedly most beautiful cities on Lake Como. It is an ancient town at the juncture of the Y formation of the lake. There is a fortress on the cape that divides the lake that has been used over the years by different groups to protect and take over the area. The town itself has been around at least since medieval times and has narrow streets and stone steps lined with modern shops and restaurants.

There are several churches, basilicas, and villas to see. You will find the links in this blog useful, because, there are simply too many churches and villas to talk about them all individually.

Napoleon Bonaparte was one of the rulers to conquer this area. He had a villa on the lake during his reign, that he barely used, but Villa Melzi d'Eril,was built in Bellagio during that era for a Duke that was his ally.

Historic Villas are something that you have to see while in the Lake Como area. The only thing that I can liken it to in the US is Newport, RI. There are many villas to visit, they all have something unique about them, and sometimes there are even walking and biking trails that connect more than one. They are a must see, and I will discuss a few of the most notable for various reasons.

Lenno is home to the Villa del Balbianello. Once a monastery for Franciscan Friars, it is now one of the most famous villas on the lake. It was used in James Bond Movies and the Star Wars franchise. It has changed hands several times since it was constructed in the 18th century; one of the previous owners is buried in a crypt on site. The building is open for tours and is rented out for weddings and other private occasions. It has beautiful gardens and towers and a commanding view of the lake.

Varenna is home to Villa Monastero. This was at one time a convent of Cistercian Nuns, and today is open to the public as a historic museum. There are artifacts, literature, and art on display throughout the villa. They also have a botanical garden with plants from around the world.

In Tremezzo we find Villa Carlotta, built in the 17th century, towering over the lake. One of the grandest old homes in the area, it now is home to a significant art museum and massive botanical garden.

There are tons of villas to visit. You can find selections on many different websites and there are tours devoted to visiting them. Make sure if you come to Lake Como, you take time to visit at least one. You'll be missing out if you don't.

Varenna is one of the older towns on the lake, with traditional architecture, a fishing industry, ancient villas and churches, and Vezio Castle.

Vezio Castle is an ancient tower that overlooks the lake from above the town. It has a fantastic view of the lake and on good days, the Alps beyond. There is a hiking path that goes up to the tower that takes about 20 minutes to walk. There are stairs that you can climb inside to look out of the tower during the day. If you want a real adventure, there's a jeep tour that will drive you to the top of the hill to visit the tower.

Verenna, in addition to being a great tourist spot with shopping and restaurants, is also home to some outdoor fun like hiking and biking and has one of the most unusual rivers in the world. The Fiumelatte River is the shortest white water, milk colored river in the world. It only flows only from March to September and is perfectly dry the rest of the year.

Lenno is home to Villa Balbianello, as mentioned aforehand. It's otherwise a sleepy little town rather famous for it's churches dating back sometimes to the 12th century. The church of San Stefano and San Battistero as well as the Abbazia dell’ Acquafredda are all well worth visiting.

Lenno is a stopping point for trains from Milan, and is popular with discerning tourists. It is also home of the olive industry on the lake and a great place to try local cuisine. Once you've eaten and rested at a local hotel, enjoy the beach. There are beaches on Lake Como, and Lenno is a great place to visit one.

Lecco is one of the oldest cities on the lake and lies at the south end of the east branch of the lake. It is one of the few cities that you will find that has a bridge across the lake, and it has four. Lecco has a rich culture as it has been ruled by Celts, Spanish, Austrian, Romans and others before landing in its current position as northern Italian.

There are museums, shopping, art, restaurants, and activities abounding in this ancient city.

Menaggio has a more strategic location on the western branch of the lake, not all that far from Bellagio. It is a great place to catch a boat tour or a ferry to travel more of the lake area. The downtown of this city is medieval and a fantastic place to soak up that ambience. They have great shopping and food.

Menaggio is probably most famous for its promenade. This area is one of the best spots where you can just walk and enjoy the views of the amazing Lake Como.

Como Italy is home to some magnificent things. It's the administrative seat of the area, and is a hub for coming to the region by train or bus from Milan. Once visited by Charlemagne, it has been a city for a very long time. It's home to the area's oldest church, the Como Cathedral, and a must see. It is one of the larger cities on the lake and a great point to catch a boat or ferry.

Home to the Tempio Voltiana, a museum honoring Alessandro Volta, the man who created the battery. It's a great stop for the techies in your crew and a beautiful building. The city is also home to sculpture parks and fountains dedicated to and created by modernist artists and engineers. It is a versatile city that also is home to Villa Olmo, which was a place where many notable people, including Napoleon, once stayed.

One of the things you can do in Como, that is found nowhere else in the lake area is ride a funicular. The Como- Brunate Funicular will take you from Como on the lake to the terrace town of Brunate. Brunate has old world charm and a greatly elevated view of the lake. It's a great ride.

Mezzegra is one interesting town. This is where it is said that Benito Mussolini was killed. It is home to a museum on that subject. The town is also home to the wine growing in the Lake Como area and produces a red wine called Mugnano. There are several local bars where you can give it a go.

Mezzegra has a festival every year, Palio di Mezzegra. This festival is host to several villages in the area and the medieval games in which they compete. There are costumes and games and it is a great time for all.

Tremezzo, home of the Villa Carlotta, is a great little town to visit on the western shore of the lake. There are fortresses, villas, churches and lakefront to visit. It is a great place to wind down as it is a smaller village. They have great shops and eats. There is a great view of the mountains, and they have beaches in this village.

Visiting Lake Como is quite an experience. You can hike, bike, kayak, water ski, sail, drive, and get around many ways. You can take the ferry system to different locations around the lake. You can take privately hired boats and cars. There are thousands of things to see and do.

Given all of your options, including non stop festivals and events around the calendar, you may want to consult a travel professional before you go. I'm not saying that you should book a tour, of which there are many. But, getting as much information before you go is wise. This is an area that caters to rich people from around the world, so you will find English speaking people around the lake. It's easy to get around and there are tons of different things to do.

My advice is to decide the basics that you wish to see before you go. There is no way to see it all. If you're outdoorsy, you may want to pick activities and book them before you go, particularly if you go in the summer.

This is also a place that if you aren't dead set on water skiing or laying on the beach, you may consider visiting during the winter. They have a fairly temperate climate and it's beautiful most of the year. Winter festivals can be wildly entertaining and leave you with a feeling of inclusivity. They have some of the best celebrations of the Festival season around the lake as well.

Lake Como is home to history, art, architecture, natural beauty, modern food, modern art, modern shopping, and fabulous festivals. It's location has made it what it is, being at the foothills of the Alps but not Alpine in climate. The waters of the lake are a deep blue in good weather which makes the scenery stunning.

If you visit the Lake Como area, you will want to fly in to Milan. It's the hopping off point where you can catch a train or bus to the lake region. If you visit in summer, plan ahead. If you wish to rent a car and drive, plan ahead. Some of the towns have limited access for cars because they are so old and have narrow streets. If you wish to take a tour, plan ahead. That being said, many college students have just back packed around the area just fine.

Always check for covid-19 updates before planning a trip to a foreign country. We all just saw what happened when the Omicron Variant popped up.

All that being said, be aware that this is an expensive area to visit. Lodging will be more expensive than other areas. Food may be as well. Figure out your budget, and plan this one ahead as much as you can.

All things considered, you don't have to be a millionaire to visit. Just plan well and by all means, enjoy.

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Wednesday, December 1, 2021

And Jenn Called it Again! Fez, Fas, Fes....Morocco!

As usual, my friend Jenn has an amazing bucket list and picks spots that I rarely think about. My friend Billy travels all over northern Africa and spends an inordinate amount of time in Morocco, but Jenn mentioned Fez, a place that Billy apparently never travels to.

When I think of Morocco, I always think of Tangier, Marrakesh, and Casablanca. For whatever reason, Fez never came to mind. Thank you Jenn, because wow was I missing some things.

Fez is unique, and that's the most succinct way I can put it. It's been there for over 1,000 years. It sits in the Sahara Desert, and it used to be the capital of the area. It has been ruled by sultans, kings, religious leaders, and even the French.

The walled sections of the city are on either side of the river; a necessary item to have in order to have a city of millions. Fez is the third largest city in the country and it has the most history. Fes al Bali is the oldest part of the city. It is medieval and a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site. Morocco became an independent nation in 1956 and by the 1980's, the Medina area was in danger of total destruction in the name of progress, but it was saved and is currently the largest pedestrian area in the world.

The oldest parts of the city are still walled and are entered through gates. There are no vehicles in these areas. You will still see donkeys and carts however. These are the main shopping areas for the world famous Moroccan staple items. You can find all of the exotic tiles and leather goods, rugs and metal works in the souks in the Medina.

Fez and Morocco are famous for their tanneries. There are a few in Fez, the most famous by far is the Chouara Tannery, located in the Medina. The process is laborious and has remained the same for centuries. They produce some of the finest leather in the world, and you can buy everything from shoes and belts to saddles in the souks made from this finely worked leather. If you like, you can arrange for a tour of the tannery through a local travel guide.

Fez is a sprawling city that has been through many phases. It was even called the Baghdad of the East at one time and is famous for its gardens. There are several gardens throughout the city both in the old neighborhoods and in Nouvelle Ville outside the walls in the newer part of the city.

The University of al-Qarawiyyin can be found in the old town, and it is highly regarded as a place of higher education worldwide. Here's a fun fact; it is the oldest university in the world. That's right; the world. It is still in operation. It is still a renowned institution for learning. It is multicultural and fabulous.

Is there a palace in Fez? Why yes, there is. The Palais Royal began construction in 1864 and is still gorgeous today. It has long since been the home of the royal family of Morocco, which you would think had gone by the wayside as the seat of government has moved to Marrakesh and all, but the current King, King Mohammed VI still lives in the palace with his family today. You can arrange a tour of the more public areas of the palace and grounds with a local tour guide.

Religion is always a big topic in Saharan countries, but Morocco is a bit different. While the country's official religion is Islam, patrons are allowed to practice their choice of religion. In the early days of Fez's prominence, the Hajj, the annual Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca was suspended for military and safety reasons. Fez became the location for pilgrims to make their way to east of the Nile River for years. During this time, there was a progression in the pilgrimage process.

The men of Fez wanted to designate a head dressing for men making their pilgrimage during the Hajj. The design that was settled on for this honor is what we today know as the Fez. It is a fact, the Fez hat came from Fez, Morocco.

From early times, there were many mosques in Fez and there are both old and new ones today. There are some in the walled areas, and some in the newer parts of the city. The bulk of the population is in fact Muslim.

There are some religious places that you might not expect to see in Fez. They do have a Catholic Church and it's still in use.

The amazing find, however, is the Jewish Quarter. From ancient times, there have been Jewish folks in Fez, and a few remain still today. There are synagogues, businesses, and even the cemetery. It is said that only 100 or so Jewish people still live in Fez, but the quarter remains in the old city.

Fez is famous for being an ancient city. However, all around the walled ancient neighborhoods is a bustling city. There are luxury hotels, busy streets, supermarkets, and everything you would expect to see in the city. The draw for the tourist here is the ancient world, but don't forget to check out what modern life is like.

You can travel to Fez by train or by plane as they have modern train stations and airports in the connectors of Casablanca and Marrakesh. There is a bus system to get you around all of the city save for the Medina areas. Taxis are available in most areas.

Also, don't forget that Fez is one of the largest cities in Morocco. If you take a taxi, make sure you settle your fare up front, so you don't find yourself paying a ridiculous amount when you arrive at your destination. Especially in the souks watch your wallet and purse. Pickpockets are a real problem in crowded shopping and tourist areas. Always check the State Department website before travel to Morocco to make sure you are aware of any problems. I had to cancel a trip several years ago, because there were riots and uprisings there. As always, check for Covid-19 updates before you travel anywhere, and be aware that the latest concerning variant came out of South Africa. Always make plans that you can change without losing your money. Just a practical factor in today's travel.

As long as you aren't concerned about the pandemic, there are some ancient rituals just waiting for you to try out. Public baths were a way of life for centuries in this part of the world. Today, baths and spas are abundant in Fez. They treat you the way that the ancients did, and it's something that should not be missed while visiting the area. Most hotels can make arrangements for a spa day at a bath through their concierge.

Now, what else can you do while on a trip to Fez? Northern Africa is a home to a wealth of ruins, not only of ancient North African peoples, but also Romans and Egyptians. Outside of Fez are several areas of ruins and they provide guides to explain the history to you. It's a great way to spend the day.

You can also take a camel safari into the desert, or go hiking in either the river areas or the desert. There are many kinds of active excursions into the desert by four wheel drive, wind surfing or whatever. There are many adventures to be had.

I wanted to make a note that one of the most dangerous races in history used to run right through Morocco. The Dakar Rally for years ran from France to Dakar, Senegal; right through Morocco and Western Sahara. So, be cautious with your activities. Don't go into the desert without a proper guide. The Sahara is dangerous.

Shopping, eating and lodging can be a lot of fun in Fez. You can buy just about anything in the old city. Don't rely on your credit card, or you might be disappointed. Cash is still king in the souks, and they take local, US, and Euro currencies in most stalls and shops. Also, if you like, most hotels will make arrangements to ship your items home if you don't wish to take an extra bag or 12 on the plane. Haggle all you want, for it is customary in Fez.

Food is a must try. If you look hard, there are a couple of western franchises knocking around, but don't do that. Moroccan cuisine is a thing of beauty and flavor, so try it out. Stop at a local stall or shop or restaurant and taste the amazing flavors of the desert. If you aren't adventurous and worry about what you should eat, ask the staff at your hotel. They will be happy to advise you.

One thing that should be said is that you should try to learn a little bit of the language, which can be a bit tricky. Being a large city, you will find English speaking people in Fez. You should try to learn at least a few phrases in the local languages of French and Egyptian Arabic. Tricky, but a few phrases should be doable.

The other topic in visiting any Muslim country is alcohol. Can you get an alcoholic beverage in Morocco? Yes. They even have vineyards and make wine in Morocco. However, I wouldn't recommend drinking while in the country. Morocco is primarily Muslim and they see drinking alcohol as a sin. When in Rome, folks. Alcohol can wait til you get home.

So, Morocco has always been one of my dream spots, but I'd never honestly considered Fez. Thanks Jenn! I'm waiting with baited breath now for my chance to go. Morocco sits along the coast of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a desert country despite all of the surrounding water. Fez sits out in that desert and was once a huge trading station. Given its location, you wouldn't expect to find the education of the oldest world class university in the world. You wouldn't expect the cultural diversity, especially within the realm of religion. And, I would never have imagined a royal family still living in a palace in a city that has long since not been the seat of government. Fez is a fascinating place with a history of world famous leather, the largest pedestrian area in the world and one of the most complete, still operating ancient walled cities anywhere. And remember, there are two walled cities there.

So, take the time to investigate Fez, Morocco as a destination. You can visit on a Morocco tour or as an individual trip. As always I recommend taking a trip directly to the Fez area. I always believe that taking your time gives you a better experience with an area. All of Morocco does sound fascinating, but take you time with it and enjoy!

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