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Wednesday, June 29, 2022

Wow! Merle Put the Maggies On My Bucket List! Welcome to Quebec's Magdalen Islands!




 

My friend and family, Merle, put this one directly on the bucket list.  I hope I do it justice here, because Merle has been there, and she probably knows way more about it than I do.


Iles de la Madeleine, The Maggies, or as I know them, The Magdalen Islands.  Until a few years ago, when Merle went there, I didn't know they existed.  It's a place that flies under most people's radar.  But, what is it about the Maggies?  

 

The Magdalen Islands are a chain of at least eight islands in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  Is that a real place you ask?  Where on Earth is that, you might wonder.  I know I did.  The Maggies are a region of Quebec, Canada.  The Gulf of St. Lawrence is where the St. Lawrence Seaway empties into the ocean.  That's the Atlantic, by the way.  The islands sit south of Newfoundland and Labrador and northwest of Nova Scotia.  The only way there is by boat or plane.  When I first heard of these islands, I thought they must be some of the most remote desolate frozen and boring islands in the world.





The tiny archipelago only covers about 70 square miles.  But, as I found out, it's what you do with your space.  From the sandstone cliffs to the massive beaches and dunes, to the road that traverses almost all of the main islands; there's so much to see and do!  I was totally amazed!


Let's start with getting there.  You can catch the ferry in Souris, Prince Edward Island.  I understand that's the preferred way to get there by those in the know.  The ferry will bring you to the harbor at Cap-Aux-Meules.  The islands are very drivable, so that's why people prefer to take the ferry.  So they can bring their cars.  The ride is about five hours, give or take with several amenities on board.  You can dine, drink, nap, watch a movie, and more.  All the while cruising the North Atlantic.  Sounds fab.


If you live way too far to drive, you can also fly.  Air Canada, and some other carriers, offer routes to the airport in Cap-Aux-Meules.  There are options to rent cars in the Magdalen Islands, so you can still drive around.

 







 

What in the world do you do while in a place like the Maggies?  Where do I start.  The population in the islands is French and Scottish for the most part.  It is considered northern Acadia and was originally home to the First Nation's people known as the Mi'Kmaq.  They called the islands Menagoesenog, if there wasn't already enough ways to refer to them.  All of this leaves the area with some hearty people who speak multiple languages and both work and play hard.

 

The list of activities in the Magdalen Islands is amazing.  You can go to the beach.  They have several of varying kinds, and are great places to hang out, surf, swim, and make sand castles.  That's right.  The Maggies are full of swimmers.  There's cave swimming, cliff diving, wind surfing, surfing, and being a beach bum if you like.

 

If the beach isn't your thing, try sea kayaking, kite flying, hiking, fishing, biking (both fat and regular tires depending on where you wish to go.).  The entire connected island chain is bikable.  Horseback riding is a big activity in the Magdalen Islands.  Moped riding is also a thing there, with rentals available in a few places.  Camping is one of the main things to do, as is digging for mussels.  There's so much to do!

 

If you aren't a thrill seeker and don't wish to swim in the North Atlantic, I get that.  I'm not sure I'd do that either.  But, on the islands there's breweries, cider mills, all kinds of artisans at the outdoor living museum known as La Grave.  

 

 






 

 

There's industry on these islands.  There's a salt mine, and you can visit their museum.  There's artisan glass around, made from the sand that covers all those dunes and beaches.  There's art galleries, specialty cheese called Pied-de-Vent Cheese; an item that they used to export to France.  Once again, there's so much happening in a place that only has 12,500 residents.  They are amazing people.

 

If you're a foodie, the Maggies are for you.  Who knew?  The staple is seafood, no surprise.  However, the cuisine is first rate and there are a lot of restaurants for you to try.  There are so many restaurants you can spit from one to another.  You'll have a hard time finding beef, but there is pork as well as fish and seafood.  On most islands, the food is largely French.  The people are mostly French.  The history is largely French.  Jacques Cartier is the first known European explorer to visit the islands.  If you've never heard of him, there's bridge named after him in Montreal.  He was a major player in the early days of what we now know as Eastern Canada.  That being said, there are some local staples that you won't find in most places.  They are a subsistence society, so some of the things that we don't eat in the rest of the world, because they're illegal, are legal in the Magdalen Islands.  The main one is seal.  What can I say?  They need the fat and protein.  If you don't wish to eat it, don't.

 

There are whale watches, seal watches, marine life watches, and even a chance to see walrus if you'd rather observe than ingest the majestic wildlife of the area.

 

The Mi'Kmaq People are the accepted first residents of the islands.  Over the years, the Maggies have been part of France, other Canadian provinces and currently are part of Quebec.  The current term for a resident of the Magdalen Islands is Madelinot.  This is what they call themselves, and this is what keeps them united as locals.

 

So, what else can you see and do?  You can take a boat to Entry Island.  It's one of the only islands that isn't connected by causeway and road.  There, you'll find one of the Maggies four lighthouses.  The trip is a day trip, taking around five hours, giving you a lot of time on the island.  The stories about the island and the lighthouse are fascinating.  The island is also referred to as Dead Man's Island and there are ghost stories.  Ask your guide.  You'll want to hear the stories.

 

 






 

 

 

Don't forget to experience the combined culture of the Mi'Kmaq, Acadians, Scottish, and French people of the Magdalen Islands.  The food is part of the culture, as is the crafts and drink.  But, take time to discuss the brightly colored homes and how they came to look like they do.  I have to say, I read that the fisherman used to paint their houses the same color as their boats to make sure they could find their way home and establish ownership evidence.  

 

There are historic churches and villages to visit.  Learn about the fishing industry, which founded the islands.  There's so much to learn.  The people of the islands have a fascinating history.  It's worth learning.  I promise.  

 

There's a hill with an amazing view that you only have to climb 187 steps to summit.  There are hiking and biking trails all over the place.  There are cliffs and hills, and thanks to the lumber industry of days past, there's not a lot of trees to block the view.  

 

If you don't like to figure it all out, you can book day tours too.  Cap-Aux-Meules is the center of the islands, and that's where you do most of the tour booking.  It makes sense as that's where the airport and ferry terminal are.  I'm not ignoring the cruise from Montreal, down the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Maggies.  It's just that since Covid-19, the cruise hasn't run, so I'm not really talking about it here.  Hopefully next year.  We'll see.

 

 





 

 

There's so many vacations in life that aren't an adventure.  There's so many adventures that are disappointing.  I'd never heard of the Magdalen Islands until Merle went there a few years ago.  She knew something.  She actually has family there.  I have to put this one directly on my own bucket list.  I have to see this place.  It's Nordic, yet French.  It's culture, yet rustic.  The only chain business I saw in any of the videos and pictures that I saw was Tim Horton's.  Accommodations are primarily small hotels, bed and breakfasts and air B&B type places.  It's quaint and inviting.  I can't imagine how wonderful it would be to visit there.

 

The climate is strangely warm as well.  The summer's are warm and touristy.  September and parts of October are unusually warm for the latitude, because of the Gulf Stream waters being diverted into the Gulf.  It's a one of a kind place.  Even in the winter, the islands remain warmer than most of the areas around therm.  Fascinating.

 

So, try something completely different.  Take a five hour ferry from almost the middle of nowhere to actual nowhere.  When you get there, you'll find a whole world you had no idea existed.  You'll find a lot of stuff to do, great food, industrious people, multiple cultures, exotic food, unexpected climate, and a whole lot of amazing fun.  So, take that plunge.  Make your way by boat or by plane to the Magdalen Islands and experience the surprise of a lifetime.  Enjoy!

 

 

 

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