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Wednesday, March 22, 2023

Dr. Doolittle, Pina Colada, and Marigot Bay!





Today I'm still discussing St. Lucia.  It's a beautiful country, small island, busy hard working people, pretty modern to be fair.  I've discussed somewhat the effect that the resort and cruise tourists have had on its environment.  Today, I'm going to talk about a bit of its evolution and how that relates to the village that I stayed in.  Marigot and its Bay.





St. Lucia was disputed for years; hundreds of them.  The French and the British alone warred and changed guard on the island a grand total of 14 times.  The country has only been an independent commonwealth of the UK with its own governing bodies for 44 years.  It's an old country and a new one.  They have a lot going on.


Marigot Bay falls directly into the path of St. Lucia's evolution.  The village lies on the west coast between Castries and Anse la Raye.  It's well known for its bay as a long time haven for sailors in bad weather.  But, it's evolved over the years.




Marigot Bay is deep.  I don't know how deep it is from the tops of the ridge to the water, but from water level to the floor below is a good 700 feet.  The mountains are nearly as high.  There's a narrow entrance to the bay which is why sailors use it as a haven against bad weather.  But what else is there to know about Marigot Bay?

A lot.






Marigot Bay looks on a map like it would be drivable.  There are businesses located all around the bay where you can take a tour, eat, swim, kayak, stay over or just dock your boat.  There's even a local customs office.  When you look at a map, it seems pretty cut and dry.  However, that's not how it works.

As with anywhere in St. Lucia, you take a narrow windy road with a lot of potholes and degeneration into the bay area.  On the way, there's an amazing viewpoint overlooking the bay where you can also get some great local food at a stand a good portion of the day and a beer or drink if you like.  It's one of the best viewpoints on the island.  I recommend stopping.

as you traverse the road into the Bay area, you will discover that the road all but ends.  There's a parking lot next to the Zoetry Resort where you can park for free, even though the locals like to charge for their assistance.  From there, it's an adventure.

There are businesses on all sides of the bay.  Restaurants, resorts, some shopping, and even a beach.  If you can't walk to it, which is a genuine possibility, there's a small ferry that goes there.  It's how you get around.







One thing I can say is that with several resorts, it's a place to get dinner.  It will cost you an arm and a leg and it probably won't be local cuisine but it's good food.  I promise you, you'll find Marigot Bay enchanting.  It struck me immediately and never wore off.


It's beauty is off the charts.  I get why rich people dock their boats there.  The people are wonderful and I enjoyed meeting a bunch of them.  There are reportedly only 769 people who live in Marigot Bay.  The rest are visitors.  We were visitors, renting an apartment and enjoying our landlords upstairs very much.  Wonderful people.


This brings me to the discussion that I have to have about Marigot Bay.  I found myself sitting next to the beach at Doolittle's Restaurant having an amazing Pina Colada one afternoon to realize that this is what Rupert Holmes must have been singing about in "Escape, The Pina Colada Song" from the 1980's.  I remembered the tune from my childhood years long past and mulled it over in my head.  The beach is small and the shape of a cape.  You can fill in the rest.  It's gorgeous and the perfect place to try the famed cocktail.


But, Marigot Bay doesn't stop there with the attachment to celebrities past.  Years ago, when there was little to nothing going on around the bay; when there were virtually no buildings there; a film was made.  






Marigot Beach Club and Dive Resort and Oasis weren't there in 1967.  Neither was Doolittle's Restaurant, the most notable restaurant in Marigot Bay.  What was there was the cast and crew of the original "Dr. Doolittle".  Rex Harrison was in the bay looking for the giant sea snail, and after that, tourism started to flourish and the rest is history.  I must say, Doolittle's Restaurant pays homage to the movie well and serves some great food.  It's the only restaurant that I found that had some Caribbean food.  I didn't eat at every restaurant, so there might be other options.  I don't know.






The sunsets are beautiful.  The food is good.  We spent a lot of time on Marigot Bay.  We learned a lot of island history there.  We met a lot of locals and tourists hiding away in resorts.  We spent some time on the beach and drank out of coconuts.  We shopped and ate.  We rented kayaks and paddled out to the sea.  It's an amazing place.


And "Dr. Doolittle" wasn't the only film to take that wonderful trip to St. Lucia and Marigot Bay.  In the 1970's there were two other films, "Firepower" and "Water".  The former starred Sophia Loren, James Coburn and O.J. Simpson.  The latter was star studded with Michael Caine leading the way.  There's a rich history in the area both military and celebrity.  Marigot Bay was a resort hideaway area for celebrities for decades.  There have been rumors for years that "Pirates of the Caribbean" filmed there.  They weren't true, but they did dock the Black Pearl in the bay for a bit.







Marigot Bay is its own little world.  It's a place that most of the guided tours out of Castries and the north end resorts bypass on their way to Soufriere and the volcano.  It's a quiet neighborhood with so much to do, even though it's one of the most relaxing places I've ever been.  The views are amazing, the people are friendly, the activities are non plus.  Once you park your car, you start to experience the bay.  You'll love it.  So, if you like Pina Coladas, and getting caught in the rain, Marigot Bay is for you.


Just a specific note.  There's a service next to the public parking where during the day you can make arrangements with a lovely lady for a guided tour to pretty much anywhere if you want to go.  You don't have to come to a north end resort or by cruise ship to book a guided tour.  You can also take guided tours by sailboat and jet boat from Marigot Bay.  


Would I go back to Marigot Bay if I went back to St. Lucia?  I already told my host at our apartment to expect a call.  I couldn't imagine staying anywhere else on the Island.  The village is small, quiet and beautiful.  It's also at the center of all the best spots to visit.  I didn't see anything that could beat that. And I also stick to my guns when I say that if you stop by on a cruise or hide away in an all inclusive resort; you're missing it.  St. Lucia is to be experienced.  So take the time to do that and enjoy!



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