Adventures for Anyone

Tuesday, April 18, 2023

The Capital City of Soufriere...Former Capital

As I've said, most people who visit St. Lucia speed by a lot of the culture and history to visit the high points and then beat feet back to their cruise or resort. One of these cities that is sped through is Soufriere.

Soufriere is an iconic city. It was for a long time the capital of St. Lucia, losing it's title somewhere between 1967 and the date of independence, 1979. The word Soufriere is French for Sulfur Mine or place of sulfur, and it is aptly named.

Soufriere has a volcano. Hence, the reference to sulfur. We visited the drive in caldera, took the tour, and learned its history. I highly recommend this activity. If you like, you can do it on a day tour from your cruise ship or resort. The drive in caldera is rare and the only one in the Caribbean; maybe the world. For anyone visiting, it does smell like sulfur. I saw some people struggling with it and wondered what they came there for, but that's just me.

The guided tour of the volcano itself takes less than half an hour. They tell you all about the history, activity and explain how they monitor it today. They point out the one thing that you don't notice on your own; the size. It's huge! It's interesting stuff, especially if you've never visited a dormant, yet very much alive volcano.

Before you arrive at the tour of the caldera, there's baths. They are sulfury. They are mud baths with volcanic mud. They are thermal. They are fantastic. Especially if you have any aches and pains. Won't lie; didn't want to leave. There are also changing rooms, concessions if you like, and above the baths are a bunch of souvenir stands. The people are wonderful, and I recommend stopping to chat almost everywhere you go in St. Lucia, but particularly around Soufriere. They have all kinds of history to tell.

A couple of practical facts. Make sure you aren't too attached to the swimsuit you wear to these baths. They do leave grey or black coloring from the volcanic mud, and you may have to throw out your suits. Just a fact. I didn't have to, but my husband did. Big advice. Wear something black.. Also, this is another spot where I ran into people on the guided tour and saw what it was like for them. They barely had 15 minutes in the baths before the guides were herding them out so they could make it to their next destination. We, on the other hand, had no such constraints. We lounged in those baths for a while. We visited with a local chef and got some great ideas of where to eat. We didn't make it to our other destinations that day and came back another day to do those. We had the freedom to take our time and enjoy the activities.

There are a lot of tourist activities around Soufriere. There are some resorts there as well. Some of the first resorts in the country were opened in Soufriere. It did used to be the country's capital. But, one of the most overlooked things about Soufriere is the city itself. It's a beautiful old world somewhat colonial looking town with a great waterfront, authentic local restaurants and historic places to see.

We stopped at Petit Peak Restaurant twice on our trip. The food was local, wonderful, and we had an amazing view of the harbor and the Piton Peaks. After we ate, we went to see the main town square, walked along the city pier and the waterfront and stopped at the small town beach. The views were amazing. The people were so friendly. I learned a lot about Soufriere while in the city. We visited a pharmacy, because I needed some band aids. We did some shopping. We went to the grocery store. It's a great place; relaxing and bright and beautiful. If you like, there are apartment rentals as well. It's a great place to stay. Just know that it is a stop on a lot of boat and minivan tours. It's also a water taxi stop. There are many ways to get around and to and from Soufriere. This is a place that should be savored, not run through at top speed.

That being said, there are some extraordinarily famous peaks in Soufriere. The Pitons are known around the world. They are some of the highest peaks in the Caribbean and one of the best known landmarks in St. Lucia. You see them when you fly in. You can't miss them if you're anywhere near them. They are majestic and beautiful.

Hiking the Pitons is something that is part of the allure of the island. There are hikes up Gros Piton and Petit Piton. They are fairly difficult and not for the faint of heart. The hikes take a few hours, but the views from the top are so worth it. If the difficult hikes aren't for you, take the Tet Paul Nature Trail. Only about a half hour, with a bunch of steps; it also comes out to some amazing scenery.

Here's a tip. If you have the adventure of driving to Soufriere via Marigot Bay and Anse la Ray, you will find three things worth stopping for. In the middle of nowhere along the road, there's a chocolate factory, store and restaurant; "Cacoa St. Lucie." You can tour the factory, eat at the restaurant and buy amazing chocolates at the store. There's a restaurant called "The Beacon" which hangs off a cliff with an outstanding view of Soufriere. Great place to get a view of those Pitons. Not far from there is a stop at a viewpoint that also has an amazing view. The vendors at the viewpoint will not only sell you some great spicy banana ketchup, but they will help you pose for a great picture that makes it look as though you're touching the tops of the Pitons. It's a fun little stop along the way. An unfortunate fact is that "The Beacon Restaurant" runs on the cruise schedule and closes after lunch.

Soufriere is also known for some waterfalls. The Diamond Falls and Botanic Garden with Mineral Baths is one such spot. I learned a lot about the local flora and fauna. You can hire a guide at the entrance if you like, but we learned a lot on our own from the material around the garden. The flowers and plants were beautiful. Diamond Falls is beautiful, and unique in the coloring that it gets from the volcanic minerals in the water. It is a must see. You can see it on the guided tours, but once again, you may not have a lot of time there.

Another part of the Botanic Gardens is the mineral baths. They were built in the 1800's for French military people, and today are a part of the island's rich history. They are not thermal baths, but are reported to be good for what ails you. You can enter the baths via the gift shop by the waterfall.

Touraille Waterfall is just up the road from Diamond Falls and the Botanic Gardens, so I recommend doing both. Touraille is the falls you can jump into and enjoy the water in the heat of the day. They have changing rooms, concessions and souvenirs. It's a great stop, but I wouldn't drive all the way out to Soufriere just to go there. Combine it with other waterfalls or the botanic gardens. It's not an all day place. Also know that there are other waterfalls in the area. You can purchase a map of the area that has other waterfalls on it. You can also look online. Most of the others are at least a small hike and not roadside or in a public gardens.

Be aware that the activities around Soufriere aren't free. There are small fees to walk a trail, see a botanical garden, go to a bath, or see a waterfall. All in all, you will spend roughly half of what a day tour costs for activities and food. However, you make your schedule. I thought that was well worth it.

There are other things to do in the area of Soufriere that I didn't get to. They have several beautiful beaches. All beaches in St. Lucia are public, so you don't have to worry about access. There are several boat tours you can take from Soufriere, whether it's to sail, fish, or watch a sunset.

One of the premier experiences in the area is The Rabot Hotel, or Hotel Chocolat. Here you not only get to stay in a luxury resort, but you get to learn about plantation life and history in St. Lucia. They have chocolate and rum tastings, a program where you learn all about chocolate growing and even make your own chocolate bar. They will take you on tours in the area and to the city market to learn about farm products in the country. They have access to the Piton Hiking Trails as well. If you want to stay at a resort; there you go.

Soufriere is a place that will capture your heart. It has a feel of days gone by, but feels a bit modern too. It's the kind of place where you can go and relax, take your time and see all the wonderful things it has to offer. The sights are unforgettable. The sunsets are magical. The people are what make you want to be there the most, but the chocolate is good. I've never been anyplace like it, and if I get to go back to the magical island, I intend to spend some more time there. I didn't get to see everything I wanted to. Do I recommend that folks visit Soufriere? Undoubtedly. It's another important place to get off the timed tour and kick back and get to know it a little. You won't regret it. So, slow down. Take your time. Visit Soufriere and all of her amazing places and enjoy!

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https://draft.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/11855847179464985/2637544531776850070

Thursday, March 30, 2023

How to Live More Like a Local in St. Lucia!

When you sail in on a cruise ship or transfer from the airport to your all inclusive resort, you may miss out on some of the best parts of learning about an island nation such as St. Lucia. What kind of money should you bring? Do they take credit cards? When is the best time to eat? Do they speak English? What other languages do they speak? What are their holidays? What is it like to drive there? Is it safe? What are the best places to see? What should you wear? What souvenirs are truly St. Lucian? What is the local cuisine? What do they do for entertainment? If you drive, where to get gas? If you stay in a non all inclusive hotel, where do you get groceries? There's a lot to learn about anywhere, so the idea that you may not have cell service in St. Lucia if coming from the states. How do you Google to find out the rest?

There's a lot to learn.

I think the first thing I want to cover is driving. We picked up our car at the airport and were staying halfway across the island, so it was our first lesson. You drive on the left. The roads are narrow, windy and steep. The traffic is pretty steady and can be stand still at times. When rounding hairpin corners, you may want to honk the horn to let oncoming drivers know you're there. Make sure you hit the turn signals. The worst adjustment we had to make was turning on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signals. Strangely, staying on the left side of the road isn't hard to remember.

There are other things to be aware of when driving in St. Lucia. People walk in St. Lucia a lot. They walk along the roads at all hours of the day and night. Look out for pedestrians. The potholes and deteriorating edges of the roads are legendary in St. Lucia so expect a lot of both. There are few road signs to tell you where you're going.

If you use Google, most roads will be titled "Unknown." Will Google get you where you want to go? Yes. I was unsure the first time I tried it and also brought a road map with me for the trip. I soon learned that even though all the roads are unknown, and the intersections seem wrong; Google knows where you're going and how to get there.

In cities and towns, beware of the ditches. Along a lot of very narrow streets in towns and cities there are cement troughs or ditches. They are there for drainage, but you have to be careful. If you drive into one of them, you could seriously damage the car.

As far as rental cars go, we loved ours. It drove great. It was in good shape. It had all the modern conveniences. Just make sure when you rent a car that it's an automatic transmission. They offer manual transmission, but the terrain just makes shifting gears all but impossible. You also may want to rent an SUV or comparable. Don't underestimate the difficulty driving a lot of the roads. Don't get manual transmission rental cars.

You may just find a lot of things in St. Lucia that seem alien to you. Embrace it. Would you like to go to the beach? Great! Beaches in St. Lucia are public. You don't have to search for a beach that isn't exclusive. They're all public. You can hang out on any of them.

Eating is something that you can do just about anywhere in the country, just make sure you know when to go. There are stands all along the roads in the tour bus parts of the island. All along the main road on the west coast are food stands with all kinds of local food. We were fortunate enough to be right in the middle of that in Marigot Bay and had an apartment with a refrigerator. The stands close early because the tourists go back to the boat, so we got our food in the morning and put it in the fridge and reheated it later for dinner. Other than that, you'll want to find a restaurant and most of them are at resorts and don't serve truly local food.

How do you know your food is local? Good question. There's a list of local staples that represent St. Lucia and their cuisine. Barbecue in the form of Jerk is one. Saltfish is another. Saltfish and Fig is famous. Saltfish salad is a side. Carib flavors are abundant. Seafood in general is plentiful. Chicken is a local favorite. You can get conch in several places. Banana ketchup is probably the most popular condiment. Roasted veggies are abundant. Stop at a stand and give it a try. You won't regret it. However, do chew fish carefully. They aren't as thorough at deboning the fish as some places.

If you go to a fancy resort, you can get all the famous cocktails that you hear and read about. Pina Coladas and all sorts of Rum drinks abound in St. Lucia. They have rum distilleries right on the island and produce all kinds of Rums. Marigot Bay Rums and Bounty Rums are the locals. If you aren't into the hard liquors, Piton and Carib beers are the local. Piton is brewed right on the island and named after the famous mountains in Soufriere.

Now, what about fruit? St. Lucia is famous for fruit. Be aware, it has to be in season. Fortunately, Bananas are pretty much always in season. Breadfruit, the famous staple introduced to the island by Captain Bligh for slaves has a season. Most fruits do have a season. Pineapple, mango, limes, lemons, papaya and so on. You will find that the bananas are smaller and sweeter than the horrible things we buy at the grocery store. You'll also find that the lemons and limes are larger and sweeter than the ones we're used to in the states. Cassava, being a root, is plentiful most of the time and a local delicacy used in snack breads and other things. Coconuts are of course all over the place. I learned while I was there from my landlord that when they are almost ripe is when the liquid inside is the tastiest. The ones he grows in his yard were great.

One of the big questions we found while we were visiting was where do you buy groceries? We like to make some breakfast and have some drinks and snacks and so on. Especially when we have a kitchen to use.

Once again, when I saw a KFC, I asked my landlord about it. I don't eat at American chain restaurants when I'm out. I always go local, but when I saw the only US fast food chain that apparently was there, I was curious. My landlord said that the chicken is seasoned to the local taste and not the original recipe. Upon doing some research, KFC says that it's exactly the same. Is it? I don't know. I ate local.

If you want to see what being a local is like food wise, go to a CPJ, Massey Grocery Store or local establishment and see. I talked to a lot of people at the grocery store. Malt beverages are popular. Wasn't for me, but I gave it a try. Most people we found were at the store later in the evening. St. Lucian folks work long hours and grab a lot of heat and eat from Massey on the way home at night. I know how that goes. Almost made me feel at home. What won't you find? A lot of beef. A lot of bottled water. A lot of sweets. It's all there, just not in the quantities and variety that we see here.

Another thing to learn at the grocery store. How to pay? Well, every grocery is different. Most take Mastercard and Visa. Some take Discover or Amex. Grocery stores take ECD (Eastern Caribbean Dollars). Grocery stores are some of the few places that don't take US Dollars. Most places do. I heard a myth when I left that we'd get change in EC, but most of the time we got change in US. Just one of those things.

Ah, shopping. Castries, the capital, has a huge market for shoppers of all kinds. You can eat, shop, and listen to all kinds of stories. What is really a local souvenir in St. Lucia?

Most of the things you find that the vendors tell you they made themselves, they didn't. Sarongs, bags, dresses, skirts, blouses, hats, necklaces, and so much else is made in China or somewhere in Asia. It's just like a lot of places here. The island is known for wood crafts, but you have to be careful about that too. The carving that I bought wasn't made by the vendor, but she stains them. That was as close as I got to an authentic St. Lucian wood carving. The most authentic souvenir I found was the banana ketchup and the rum. Truly local and delicious. I did buy some things, but I was well aware that no one in Castries made them.

Then there's Castries. I was told we had to go there. When I arrived, we found out that the parking was interesting to say the least. We had to ask several people where to park. we finally found a place. The restaurants closed early, because Castries is the port and is full of cruise ships. The people normally go back to the ships for dinner and a lot of places close. It's crowded and a lot of the places to visit aren't worth the grief of going into the city. The local town square and church were cute. The market was bustling. But, was it worth all the grief of the traffic? Not really. There were dozens of people trying to get us to hire their taxi and even the vendors in the duty free shops were overbearing. For my money, not worth the trouble.

One of the things I learned about St. Lucia was that staying on the regimented path is a crime. There's so much to see and do. There are so many beautiful places. We did all the regular stuff, and we missed some overrated things too. We didn't visit the cocoa plantation and make our own chocolate bar. We did stop at a chocolate factory in the middle of nowhere and get some great chocolates. We didn't take a tour of the volcano, but we did go on our own and took our time and enjoyed the baths thoroughly. We didn't ride in a crowded van along the banana plantations, but we did stop and then went to the rum distillery. We didn't climb a Piton, but we did find the most charming restaurant on the shore in Soufriere. We went kayaking instead of speed boating or sailing. It depends on what you really want to do.

One of the important things about doing things on your own is making that possible. Like I said, you may not have cell service in St. Lucia. What we did was stop and get a local SIM card for a few bucks and voila! You can visit a Flow or a Cell or a Digicel and they'll help you. It's a great option, especially if you need to Google directions.

I mentioned that there are some must sees that I wasn't thrilled with. Castries was that way all around. The must sees were cute, they just weren't worth it. The governor's house on the hill overlooking Castries was another disappointment. The traffic was so bad and the parking is so small that we just kept driving. It wasn't worth it. There were so many better things to see on the island. Boat tours we found were great if you wanted to go on a boat. Otherwise, pointless. They're expensive, time consuming and you miss out on a lot of other things. If you like to ride on boats, it's for you. Other than that, we found that the east side of the island is beautiful and sorely overlooked. The north end I may never know about. didn't bother to go up to where the all inclusives were.

There's a lot to learn about St. Lucia. For instance, they have several national holidays. Most of them are religious. They're independence day is in February and they are a commonwealth of Great Britain but self governing since 1979. They do celebrate Christian holidays, mostly Catholic. One of the biggest is the Feast Day of St. Lucy or St. Lucia; their patron saint. If you want to celebrate Carnival, it gets tricky. Carnival is just before Lent in winter. It comes into direct conflict with their independence day a lot of the time. Therefore, Carnival is a festival in July these days. That's when they do all the stuff that other places do for Carnival in the winter.

One of the things you'll find during Carnival weekend in the winter is that there will be a lot of music concerts in parking lots and outdoor restaurants and bars around the island. St. Lucia is like most other islands and is noted for it's Reggae and Calypso music. But, watch out folks, that's not what you'll hear. I was staying in a residential area in Marigot Bay during Carnival weekend the proper. We could sit on our balcony and listen to it from our apartment at night. I promise you, I heard no music that I expected to hear. Everywhere we went, we heard American Country Music. The locals love it and can't get enough. In the area we were in, it was the most popular music everywhere you went.

Before I close this entry, I'll discuss a couple of other things about life in St. Lucia. First, language. Everyone speaks English. There's so many British and American tourists running around that it just makes sense. They're also a commonwealth of Britain. They do speak a Creole (pronounced Kwee-ole) with a French twist from regimes past, and it's a beautiful language. You'll probably not hear much of it as a tourist though.

The other thing is safety. I was warned to guard my belongings in Castries. I didn't encounter any issues. People begged and tried to sell me everything in the world, but I encountered nothing but nice friendly people. Once in the smaller towns, it became even less of an issue. Don't let ridiculous rumor guide your choices for vacation. I've found that the world over and just have to say that you just need to be practical and you'll be fine.

So, that's how it works. You can get cash from many ATM machines around the island. That's how we got cash. the fees aren't bad at all. Just make sure you use one associated with a bank. We learned a lot about life on the island. We learned that water in residential areas tends to be filtered rainwater. Makes sense, because it rains 5 times a day in the dry season. TV is largely by app, although they have local channels. Your American apps probably won't work there, so don't try. You aren't there to watch TV anyway. Internet is abundant across the island, so Wi-Fi is standard. It's all a little different, but all fascinating. I love to try a different way of life once in a while, and St. Lucia offers just that. It's not third world, it's just a bit different. So, if you make your way to the charming Island Nation, embrace the different, the lifestyle and enjoy!

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Wednesday, March 22, 2023

Dr. Doolittle, Pina Colada, and Marigot Bay!

Today I'm still discussing St. Lucia. It's a beautiful country, small island, busy hard working people, pretty modern to be fair. I've discussed somewhat the effect that the resort and cruise tourists have had on its environment. Today, I'm going to talk about a bit of its evolution and how that relates to the village that I stayed in. Marigot and its Bay.

St. Lucia was disputed for years; hundreds of them. The French and the British alone warred and changed guard on the island a grand total of 14 times. The country has only been an independent commonwealth of the UK with its own governing bodies for 44 years. It's an old country and a new one. They have a lot going on.

Marigot Bay falls directly into the path of St. Lucia's evolution. The village lies on the west coast between Castries and Anse la Raye. It's well known for its bay as a long time haven for sailors in bad weather. But, it's evolved over the years.

Marigot Bay is deep. I don't know how deep it is from the tops of the ridge to the water, but from water level to the floor below is a good 700 feet. The mountains are nearly as high. There's a narrow entrance to the bay which is why sailors use it as a haven against bad weather. But what else is there to know about Marigot Bay?

A lot.

Marigot Bay looks on a map like it would be drivable. There are businesses located all around the bay where you can take a tour, eat, swim, kayak, stay over or just dock your boat. There's even a local customs office. When you look at a map, it seems pretty cut and dry. However, that's not how it works.

As with anywhere in St. Lucia, you take a narrow windy road with a lot of potholes and degeneration into the bay area. On the way, there's an amazing viewpoint overlooking the bay where you can also get some great local food at a stand a good portion of the day and a beer or drink if you like. It's one of the best viewpoints on the island. I recommend stopping.

as you traverse the road into the Bay area, you will discover that the road all but ends. There's a parking lot next to the Zoetry Resort where you can park for free, even though the locals like to charge for their assistance. From there, it's an adventure.

There are businesses on all sides of the bay. Restaurants, resorts, some shopping, and even a beach. If you can't walk to it, which is a genuine possibility, there's a small ferry that goes there. It's how you get around.

One thing I can say is that with several resorts, it's a place to get dinner. It will cost you an arm and a leg and it probably won't be local cuisine but it's good food. I promise you, you'll find Marigot Bay enchanting. It struck me immediately and never wore off.

It's beauty is off the charts. I get why rich people dock their boats there. The people are wonderful and I enjoyed meeting a bunch of them. There are reportedly only 769 people who live in Marigot Bay. The rest are visitors. We were visitors, renting an apartment and enjoying our landlords upstairs very much. Wonderful people.

This brings me to the discussion that I have to have about Marigot Bay. I found myself sitting next to the beach at Doolittle's Restaurant having an amazing Pina Colada one afternoon to realize that this is what Rupert Holmes must have been singing about in "Escape, The Pina Colada Song" from the 1980's. I remembered the tune from my childhood years long past and mulled it over in my head. The beach is small and the shape of a cape. You can fill in the rest. It's gorgeous and the perfect place to try the famed cocktail.

But, Marigot Bay doesn't stop there with the attachment to celebrities past. Years ago, when there was little to nothing going on around the bay; when there were virtually no buildings there; a film was made.

Marigot Beach Club and Dive Resort and Oasis weren't there in 1967. Neither was Doolittle's Restaurant, the most notable restaurant in Marigot Bay. What was there was the cast and crew of the original "Dr. Doolittle". Rex Harrison was in the bay looking for the giant sea snail, and after that, tourism started to flourish and the rest is history. I must say, Doolittle's Restaurant pays homage to the movie well and serves some great food. It's the only restaurant that I found that had some Caribbean food. I didn't eat at every restaurant, so there might be other options. I don't know.

The sunsets are beautiful. The food is good. We spent a lot of time on Marigot Bay. We learned a lot of island history there. We met a lot of locals and tourists hiding away in resorts. We spent some time on the beach and drank out of coconuts. We shopped and ate. We rented kayaks and paddled out to the sea. It's an amazing place.

And "Dr. Doolittle" wasn't the only film to take that wonderful trip to St. Lucia and Marigot Bay. In the 1970's there were two other films, "Firepower" and "Water". The former starred Sophia Loren, James Coburn and O.J. Simpson. The latter was star studded with Michael Caine leading the way. There's a rich history in the area both military and celebrity. Marigot Bay was a resort hideaway area for celebrities for decades. There have been rumors for years that "Pirates of the Caribbean" filmed there. They weren't true, but they did dock the Black Pearl in the bay for a bit.

Marigot Bay is its own little world. It's a place that most of the guided tours out of Castries and the north end resorts bypass on their way to Soufriere and the volcano. It's a quiet neighborhood with so much to do, even though it's one of the most relaxing places I've ever been. The views are amazing, the people are friendly, the activities are non plus. Once you park your car, you start to experience the bay. You'll love it. So, if you like Pina Coladas, and getting caught in the rain, Marigot Bay is for you.

Just a specific note. There's a service next to the public parking where during the day you can make arrangements with a lovely lady for a guided tour to pretty much anywhere if you want to go. You don't have to come to a north end resort or by cruise ship to book a guided tour. You can also take guided tours by sailboat and jet boat from Marigot Bay.

Would I go back to Marigot Bay if I went back to St. Lucia? I already told my host at our apartment to expect a call. I couldn't imagine staying anywhere else on the Island. The village is small, quiet and beautiful. It's also at the center of all the best spots to visit. I didn't see anything that could beat that. And I also stick to my guns when I say that if you stop by on a cruise or hide away in an all inclusive resort; you're missing it. St. Lucia is to be experienced. So take the time to do that and enjoy!

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