30 years ago or so, I visited an exotic land, and that visit would change my life forever. My friend, Jen, has officially placed that spot on the bucket list for the blog, and I am more than willing to write about it. She did specify Margaret Island (Margitsziget), but welcome to Budapest!
Back in 1992 when I visited, it was not only winter, but a brand new country. Gone were the ghosts of Soviets, Hapsburgs, and Nazis; and Hungary was independent. The hidden hospitals in caves, and all the other ruins of wars past would soon become monuments, memorials, gardens, and reminders to never do WWII again.
For anyone who's never been to Europe, reminders are a theme, and I think a good one. They don't ever want to live through the kind of destruction and genocide they survived during WWII. The theory is that if it's in your face, you can't forget and therefore, hopefully will never go there again. I admire that. I wish the United States was that attached to their history. I wish we knew the value of leaving history in place to warn future generations of tragedies that we never wish to repeat.
Anyway, Buda is historically on the west side of the Danube and Pest is on the east. A long time ago, they became Budapest. That's how we know them today. With the remnants of royalty sitting on top of Castle Hill on the west riverbank, and the world famous Parliament Building on the east shore, the history of the city comes alive.
Let me start by saying the Parliament Building looks more like a castle and the Castle looks more like a government building. Both in Budapest are beautiful. Castle Hill is a neighborhood where you can see some of the best of the old world. The neighborhood itself is ancient, narrow roaded, and geared for tourists. You can take the funicular up to the hill from the river. You can also drive or ride a bus across the famed Chain Bridge. While on the hill you should visit the castle and check out some shops. There's great coffee, goulash and other Hungarian specialties, and if you like you can get your future told by a Gypsy.
Hungarians and Gypsies have a checkered past, so don't be surprised if the Magyars don't seem fond of Gypsies. On that note, Magyars are just that. They don't refer to themselves as Hungarians. And, while they remember their history as a lesson, they don't like to live it. They prefer that visitors learn a few phrases of Magyar before they visit. A lot of people do speak English at least a little, and that they don't mind. However, they speak German, but they hate it. It's a strange relationship with the language, but it's a real thing. And, if for some reason, you speak Russian; don't even go there. German and Russian languages strike a raw nerve in Budapest.
All that being said, Budapest is a wonderful city with so much to offer, so much to learn, and so much to do. They've joined the ranks of a city with an Eye. You can get a bird's eye view from the giant wheel. It's great for a little downtime or photos.
Budapest is easily navigable by public transportation, so take the tram, subway, bus, train, boat and whatever. It's a great way to get around town. You'll meet people and have time to see the city. It's a beautiful city and a great idea is to not miss the view because you're driving.
There's a city market, parks, tours, walking tours, a Jewish Quarter, historic neighborhoods, opera, theater, ballet, shopping, foodie options, and so much more. One thing that you can't miss is the trip up to The Fisherman's Bastion. It overlooks the city from Castle Hill and is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. I also must mention that musicians play there every evening, and you have a beautiful nighttime view of the city, the Parliament Building and the Chain Bridge from there. It makes for a magical evening.
Other places to visit include the Dohany Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter. It has a long history and is the largest Synagogue outside of Israel. Another place is Andrassy Avenue, which has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There's a museum called The House of Terror, which as movielike as it seems, is a historical museum showcasing all the tyrants that have ruled over the area. Take a walk along the Danube Promenade on the Pest side. Visit Gellert Hill, see the Lady Liberty Statue (the only statue remaining from Soviet times.) There's also a citadel on that hill with an enormous history and a great view. There's a riverside sculpture of iron shoes reminding us of deaths of WWII. And, if you look closely, there are some interesting statues around town that you can investigate. There's Steve Jobs, Ronald Reagan, Bela Lugosi, and even Columbo. Interesting stuff.
One of the activities that Budapest and Hungary are most famous for are the baths. They're all over the city, and they are places where the locals have gathered for centuries. There are pools, spas, thermal baths, and more recently water parks. The Gellert Baths are from the early 1900's and the buildings are in Art Nouveau style. Another famous bath is the thermal Szechenyi Baths. Also worth a visit.
But, Jen asked for Margaret Island, so I'll discuss the most amazing waters in the city. Part of it is the Palatinus Baths, or Palas as the locals call them. There are several sections, some thermal, some cold. They have something for everyone there. There's a spa with it, and an enormous pool. It's the bath of Magaret Island, and a great place for the whole family.
The people of Hungary have declared swimming their national sport, and Margaret Island is ground zero. The Alfred Hajos National Swimming Stadium with four floors of swimming pools and training centers is one of the largest swimming centers in the world. It's open to the public year round. It has both indoor and outdoor facilities. It's a spectacle to see.
On other notes, there's also a water park on the island. There are a lot of places to enjoy the water and swim.
The best of the spas is associated with the Grand Hotel, the only luxury accommodations on the island. There is however, a hostel available as well and some private rentals of various kinds.
If you like water, but don't wish to swim, there's a musical fountain. You can't swim in that or the authorities will sack you with a hefty fine. They perform, just like at the Bellagio on a regular schedule.
The island has a historic water tower as well, which you can climb and overlook a good portion of the riverfront areas of the city.
Did I mention that Margaret Island sits in the middle of the city in the middle of the Danube River? It's a great spot. There's no driving on the island unless you're headed to a hotel or parking area. They are clearly marked, so don't drive outside the lines. Margaret Island is a pedestrian island. They have multiple means to get around from a train on wheels, to electric golf cars, Segways, scooters, carts with drivers, electric and pedal bikes that can haul up to 12 people. Other than that, you'll need to walk.
Margaret Island is full of gardens. There's British Gardens, Rose Gardens, and even Japanese Gardens. If you like to run, there's a specifically designed running path along the river. There's a lot of different areas for different activities. There's playgrounds for the kids, there's sculptures that you can climb up in. There's a museum. There's a lot to do. And, most of it is free. Can't stress that enough.
If you like to eat, they've got that covered. There are a couple of fancier restaurants on the island, but the best spot to eat is at what they call the buffets. Hippie Island, Wonder Island, Steg, and Champs are probably the best known eateries, but they have something for everyone. Just look for the giant Budapest sign.
Maps are available in several areas, as are souvenirs. It's a tourist paradise that comes with something for everyone. They even have a petting zoo for the kids; or for the adults if you love animals.
It's easy to spend days on the island, especially during the summer, but most of the island is open well into the fall and opens relatively early in the spring as well.
Budapest is an amazing historical city that pleases all of the senses well into the modern era. I visited many years ago, but in my mind it seems like yesterday. I remember every sight, every smell, every sound. I remember an open, honest, and yet friendly people. I remember some of the most beautiful architecture I ever saw. It was one of the greatest places I ever visited, and probably the area where I learned the most about my surroundings of any place I've ever visited.
There's a way in Budapest. It's not just the tourists going to the baths, thermal or cold, with or without spas. The locals see it as a traditional way of life. Remember, when you visit a bath, you'll be interacting with people who live there. That's what I call travel. You can't beat that.
Margaret Island is an amazing place sitting right in the middle of the Danube, where you can do pretty much any activity and is a must visit while in the city. It doesn't matter how you get there. You can even take a Viking River Cruise and stop there. You can walk, drive (as long as you park), take a boat. It's one of the loveliest places you'll ever visit.
So, Budapest is amazing. The culture, the activities, the history, the architecture, the people, the food, the view, the island, the opera, and everything else. It's a one of a kind place, with one of a kind things to see and do. So visit Margaret Island, take the funicular to Castle Hill, sit atop the Fisherman's Bastion while someone plays guitar, soak it all in and enjoy!
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